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Corny keg faucets


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#1 chadm75

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 10:48 AM

Looking for some guidance Gents.  I'm going to be pouring Cream Ale and IPA at a 4th of July party this weekend.  Ideally, I want to attach beer faucets directly to the cornies via a ball lock quick disconnect.  In my early experiments with this, since there is practically zero line restriction (just the dip tube) I've had to drop the serving pressure so low that what comes out is nothing but foam.  Any thoughts or suggestions from the table on how to combat this?

 

I could always just attach a picnic tap with beer line attached but was hoping to not have to do that.


Edited by chadm75, 30 June 2015 - 10:49 AM.


#2 positiveContact

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 10:51 AM

why would serving at a low pressure result in foam?



#3 chadm75

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:02 AM

why would serving at a low pressure result in foam?

 

Maybe I misspoke.  Since there is almost no "line restriction", all I've gotten is foam.  I just assumed that was the reason.



#4 neddles

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:07 AM

Maybe I misspoke.  Since there is almost no "line restriction", all I've gotten is foam.  I just assumed that was the reason.

Pull the PRV first to release existing pressure in the keg?



#5 chadm75

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:21 AM

Pull the PRV first to release existing pressure in the keg?

 

I could try that. 

 

Am I wrong to believe the reason for all the foam is due to the lack of resistance in the line?



#6 Big Nake

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:26 AM

I'm not an expert but going directly from the keg to a faucet sounds like trouble. I think that the line (and the length of the line) is a key part of the equation and various lengths of line can be adjusted with psi. But here you have NO length and I feel like you're missing a big part of the equation. In almost any application (jockey box, kegerator, tower, standard bar setup, etc) there is a length of line. Do you have access to a jockey box? That would allow for faucets on the cooler and no "visible" line.

#7 neddles

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:27 AM

I could try that. 

 

Am I wrong to believe the reason for all the foam is due to the lack of resistance in the line?

No. But I think if you pull the PRV first you won't need that resistance to counter the pressure you are pushing with. This my be why the original design of those igloo cooler serving vessels (you posted in the other thread) had lines attached and run back into the cooler and then to a cooler mounted tap.... to keep the serving pressure the same and to keep the lines (and faucet) cold.


Edited by nettles, 30 June 2015 - 11:28 AM.


#8 neddles

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:29 AM

I'm not an expert but going directly from the keg to a faucet sounds like trouble. I think that the line (and the length of the line) is a key part of the equation and various lengths of line can be adjusted with psi. But here you have NO length and I feel like you're missing a big part of the equation. In almost any application (jockey box, kegerator, tower, standard bar setup, etc) there is a length of line. Do you have access to a jockey box? That would allow for faucets on the cooler and no "visible" line.

Agree. I think gnef was building a bunch of these. Maybe he'll chime in and let us know how he gets them to work optimally.



#9 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:31 AM

I've done this many times. You have to relieve the pressure on the keg if it's higher than serving pressure or you will get foam. Pull the valve and relieve the pressure. Put the gas line on and do 6-8 psi. It should be fine. If you don't drain the keg remember to increase the psi (when you're done drinking) or it will lose CO2 at the lower pressure until it reaches equilibrium.


Edited by SchwanzBrewer, 30 June 2015 - 11:31 AM.


#10 Big Nake

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:43 AM

I've done this many times. You have to relieve the pressure on the keg if it's higher than serving pressure or you will get foam. Pull the valve and relieve the pressure. Put the gas line on and do 6-8 psi. It should be fine. If you don't drain the keg remember to increase the psi (when you're done drinking) or it will lose CO2 at the lower pressure until it reaches equilibrium.

Sounds reasonable. Every time I put a new keg on a draft line, I release the pressure first and then connect the CO2 and allow everything to balance. I don't think that I have ever been to a gathering or event where I saw a faucet connected directly to the keg. I have brought kegs to parties and I just use a 5# tank connected to the keg connected to a 5' cobra tap.

#11 positiveContact

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:43 AM

I've done this many times. You have to relieve the pressure on the keg if it's higher than serving pressure or you will get foam. Pull the valve and relieve the pressure. Put the gas line on and do 6-8 psi. It should be fine. If you don't drain the keg remember to increase the psi (when you're done drinking) or it will lose CO2 at the lower pressure until it reaches equilibrium.

 

that's what I was expecting.



#12 chadm75

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 12:23 PM

I've done this many times. You have to relieve the pressure on the keg if it's higher than serving pressure or you will get foam. Pull the valve and relieve the pressure. Put the gas line on and do 6-8 psi. It should be fine. If you don't drain the keg remember to increase the psi (when you're done drinking) or it will lose CO2 at the lower pressure until it reaches equilibrium.

 

I'll try this tonight. 

 

I'm going to be pushing beer with Co2 chargers.  Any forseeable issues using these instead of hauling and hooking up a 5# tank?



#13 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 01:05 PM

I'll try this tonight. 

 

I'm going to be pushing beer with Co2 chargers.  Any forseeable issues using these instead of hauling and hooking up a 5# tank?

 

Might have to change the cartridge once. Be careful putting it together. They've blown up on me before and some shrapnel got stuck in my friends forearm.



#14 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 01:09 PM

Basically they explode if you press the trigger and they aren't hooked up right.



#15 Big Nake

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 01:41 PM

Considering some areas I dive deep into, there are a number of areas I do not and this is one of them. Clearly I want my draft lines to serve properly but I generally go on the idea that "I hook this up to this and then I turn this and then I pull this... And then a miracle occurs... and I have beer!". :lol: People ask me what volume I carb a beer to. I don't know. I do the 48 hours x 25psi and maybe a shorter time if it's a beer I want to have less carb. Otherwise, this is an area that I have been satisfied with but I'm certainly no expert.

#16 chadm75

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 02:00 PM

Basically they explode if you press the trigger and they aren't hooked up right.

 

Yeah, they can be tricky.  I buy the threaded ones that at least make me feel a little safer.

 

Considering some areas I dive deep into, there are a number of areas I do not and this is one of them. Clearly I want my draft lines to serve properly but I generally go on the idea that "I hook this up to this and then I turn this and then I pull this... And then a miracle occurs... and I have beer!". :lol: People ask me what volume I carb a beer to. I don't know. I do the 48 hours x 25psi and maybe a shorter time if it's a beer I want to have less carb. Otherwise, this is an area that I have been satisfied with but I'm certainly no expert.

 

Way back when, I took my carbonating advice from Mr. Lenard and haven't looked back.  This is just what I do as well.

 

I guess I could use a chart to measure.  They use those fancy measuring shaky things in breweries to measure Co2 levels in bright tanks.  The name of them escapes me right now...



#17 realbeerguy

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 02:13 PM

I have one of those faucet/ball lock faucets from Adventures in Homebrewing but have yet to use it.  Hope it works. 



#18 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 03:00 PM

Yeah, they can be tricky.  I buy the threaded ones that at least make me feel a little safer.

 

 

Way back when, I took my carbonating advice from Mr. Lenard and haven't looked back.  This is just what I do as well.

 

I guess I could use a chart to measure.  They use those fancy measuring shaky things in breweries to measure Co2 levels in bright tanks.  The name of them escapes me right now...

 

Just don't put the cartridge in until you've attached it to the keg. I think where I screwed up was I attached the ball lock QD's and went on my way in a golf cart. They got bumped and the trigger went off. Damn things started exploding right and left. Luckily I had a couple bottles with me for back up.


Oh and I also use the Lenard Method of carbonation. I vary from 25 - 30+ psi depending on what I want to get. 



#19 djinkc

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 04:49 PM

I've seen people serve with these but I don't think they were at typical serving pressure.  I have no idea if they have the restriction necessary to match a typical serving line at 10 - 12 psi.  I don't see why that wouldn't be possible though.



#20 gnef

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 10:02 PM

This was a small project of mine to be able to pull samples directly from kegs stored in the walk in without having to bring in a picnic tap, as well as to be able to serve directly from the kegs.

 

This is the thread for it: https://www.brews-br...ck-disconnects/

 

Basically, I used a special fitting designed for Perlick 650ss flow control faucets (1/4'' FFL to faucet with collar). This allows me to serve directly from the kegs with the restriction custom dialed in to my preference. 

 

I will say that it works very well for beer that is properly carbonated. I have some kegs that became overcarbed, and the flow control couldn't compensate when it was way out of norm.

 

I will also say that this is one of the most expensive ways to do this. The ball lock all stainless one was over $100 after it was all said and done.

 

I also have three jockey boxes for larger portable serving needs, a 6 pass, 5 pass, and 2 pass. If you are doing multiple kegs simultaneously, a jockey box is great if you have one or have access to one, but they are expensive to buy or build unless you are very patient and find amazing deals.




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