28 replies to this topic

[neddles]

Smart idea using the bold into the side handle hole. 

It worked. Like I said above, the thing is completely rock solid. 

 

Next I'm going to find a good grinding speed and put a zip tie around the trigger so I can just plug it in.

[HVB]

It worked. Like I said above, the thing is completely rock solid. 

 

Next I'm going to find a good grinding speed and put a zip tie around the trigger so I can just plug it in.

I was going to suggest a hose clamp but a zip tie will do the trick also.

[matt6150]

Nice! I like that bolt idea as well. What about cutting the cord and putting in an inline reostat to adjust your speed?

[positiveContact]

the drill looks like it has a trigger lock.  are you afraid to run it full out?

 

I don't think I'd like having the plug be the on/off switch.  seems kind of dangerous.

Edited by Evil_Morty, 05 August 2015 - 12:32 PM.

[HVB]

the drill looks like it has a trigger lock.  are you afraid to run it full out?

 

I don't think I'd like having the plug be the on/off switch.  seems kind of dangerous.

 

Live a little

 

If it was me and I found the speed I wanted it at, I would cut the cord and run it to a switch and from the switch a plug.

[positiveContact]

Live a little

 

If it was me and I found the speed I wanted it at, I would cut the cord and run it to a switch and from the switch a plug.

 

also could the torque of the drill flip this thing over?  I've done that by accident before and dumped grain all over the place.  I guess since it's all on the same board it's fine?

[neddles]

The rheostat is a good idea. On the rare occasion where I might need the drill for something else I'd prefer to leave the cord intact. Also the set-up isn't too unwieldy so I can move it around easily as is. I like to mill grains outside during the warmer months. I can see possibly mounting the whole thing as a top to a small homemade cart to wheel it around and plug it in wherever.

 

also could the torque of the drill flip this thing over?  I've done that by accident before and dumped grain all over the place.  I guess since it's all on the same board it's fine?

 

When I first bought this mill (Monster Mill MM-2) 2 yrs. ago I dropped it (with the 3/8" drill attached) on the very first grind because of the torque. (dumb ass) This bent the drive shaft on the roller slightly. It was tolerable for milling but eventually wore out the grooves in the shaft because it would wobble the chuck loose. I bought a new roller with 1/2" shaft a while back knowing that replacement was inevitable. The shaft wore out recently and prompted this thread. I built with the torque issue in mind. When I milled today there was absolutely no transference of torque to the rest of the assembly. It was rock solid and powerful.

[Steve Urquell]

Nettles, for extra grip at the chuck I marked where the 3 jaws were on the mill shaft with a sharpie then ground 3 flats on it. All 3 drill chuck jaws sit on the flats. Saves chewing up the shaft if the chuck slips.

[neddles]

Nettles, for extra grip at the chuck I marked where the 3 jaws were on the mill shaft with a sharpie then ground 3 flats on it. All 3 drill chuck jaws sit on the flats. Saves chewing up the shaft if the chuck slips.

The drive shaft on the new roller has those pre-ground into it. I considered doing just what you suggested with the old one but since the shaft was bent I kinda gave up on it.