125 replies to this topic

[positiveContact]

so for the hops maybe...

 

HOPS:

? oz Hallertau @ 60 mins to get IBUs up to 24 total

2.0 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

2.0 oz Hallertau @ flameout

2.0 oz Hallertau hop stand

 

this is getting IPA like!

[3rd party JKor]

24 IBU seems low to me, but I see you got that from the MdV website.  I guess I need to get some to give it a try again.

[positiveContact]

24 IBU seems low to me, but I see you got that from the MdV website.  I guess I need to get some to give it a try again.

 

it def was not bitter at all.

[neddles]

so for the hops maybe...

 

HOPS:

? oz Hallertau @ 60 mins to get IBUs up to 24 total

2.0 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

2.0 oz Hallertau @ flameout

2.0 oz Hallertau hop stand

 

this is getting IPA like!

6 ozs. in 10 gallons? Pfft!

 

But seriously, why the flameout and the hop stand? Why not just 4 ozs. in one or the other?

Edited by nettles, 07 August 2015 - 11:40 AM.

[positiveContact]

6 ozs. in 10 gallons? Pfft!

 

But seriously, why the flameout and the hop stand? Why not just 4 ozs. in one or the other?

 

Prior to dry hopping my IPAs rarely have more than 8 oz of hops.  when I dry hop that usually kicks it up another 3-6 oz.

 

I think they are different.  When I do a hop stand I don't put the hops in until the wort has cooled a bit.  the flameout addition is right after I turn the propane burner off.

Edited by Evil_Morty, 07 August 2015 - 11:47 AM.

[neddles]

Prior to dry hopping my IPAs rarely have more than 8 oz of hops.  when I dry hop that usually kicks it up another 3-6 oz.

 

I think they are different.  When I do a hop stand I don't put the hops in until the wort has cooled a bit.  the flameout addition is right after I turn the propane burner off.

What is the difference that you notice?

[positiveContact]

What is the difference that you notice?

 

to me the hop stand is kind of in between a late boil addition and dry hop.  I don't have any science to back it up other than to say that not exposing the hop to high temperatures is likely to change something.

[positiveContact]

interesting that I see that some are adding hops at flameout and then pausing chilling and calling this a hop stand.  that's not quite how I was using the term.

[HVB]

interesting that I see that some are adding hops at flameout and then pausing chilling and calling this a hop stand.  that's not quite how I was using the term.

I would not call that a hop stand either.  I have added hops at 0 let them steep for 5-10 minutes then cooled to 170 and added my whirlpool addition and let that sit for 30.  Not sure what it added to the beer seeing I did not do a side by side.

[neddles]

I have added hops at 0 let them steep for 5-10 minutes then cooled...

I would think that would produce the same effect on flavor/aroma and almost the same in IBU's as a 5 or 10 min. addition. What did you notice?

[HVB]

I would think that would produce the same effect on flavor/aroma and almost the same in IBU's as a 5 or 10 min. addition. What did you notice?

That is my thought too.  It also messes up the 10-15 minute additions because by the end they are in there for almost 60 minutes by the time the whirlpool is over.

[positiveContact]

That is my thought too.  It also messes up the 10-15 minute additions because by the end they are in there for almost 60 minutes by the time the whirlpool is over.

 

yeah, my goal is to drop the temp down below 170F pretty quickly to lock in my IBU levels where I intended them to be.

[3rd party JKor]

it def was not bitter at all.

 

 

I generally think of a dort export as a pretty hoppy beer.  Based on the guidelines (23-30 IBU) the Ayinger beer is on the low end.  My favorite of this style is the Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold.  I still remember where I was the first time I had it.  They list their IBU as 30, so that's probably where I'm getting the sense of a higher bitterness.  Also, high sulfate content is generally referenced wrt dortmunders, which will obviously accentuate that 30 IBU.

[neddles]

I generally think of a dort export as a pretty hoppy beer.  Based on the guidelines (23-30 IBU) the Ayinger beer is on the low end.  My favorite of this style is the Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold.  I still remember where I was the first time I had it.  They list their IBU as 30, so that's probably where I'm getting the sense of a higher bitterness.  Also, high sulfate content is generally referenced wrt dortmunders, which will obviously accentuate that 30 IBU.

I know the style adherents say that GLDG is not a real Dortmunder. I don't know or care and I agree it is a very delicious beer. I think it is 2-row a bit of C60 (probably to color it up) and all Mt. Hood late.

[Brauer]

so for the hops maybe...

 

HOPS:

? oz Hallertau @ 60 mins to get IBUs up to 24 total

2.0 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

2.0 oz Hallertau @ flameout

2.0 oz Hallertau hop stand

 

this is getting IPA like!

24 IBU sounds about right. It should be pretty dry and a bit minerally, which will accentuate that a little.

 

That's more than I would add. I would do 1.5-2 oz. at 5' and 1.5-2 oz. in the hop stand (10 gallons, right?). For an IPA, wouldn't you add 3-4 times as much late hops (and make it twice as bitter)? Anyway, you could roll back the late hops a little further, if you are concerned.  You probably want to balance it more toward aroma than flavor, compared to a Pilsner, and less bitter.  I'd make it once, then adjust as needed for the next batch. It always takes me a few batches, when I really have a specific flavor profile stuck in my head, but I've long since stopped trying to clone beers and only make "in the style of..." beers, now.

 

I don't consider the beer to really be a Dortmunder, it's more the Munich take on the style, with a dose of Munich Malt, (I expect to help bring the pH down, probably along with a decent dose of CaSO4 and CaCl, but not so much as to get the SO4 bite that I associate with a Dortminder). 

[3rd party JKor]

I know the style adherents say that GLDG is not a real Dortmunder. I don't know or care and I agree it is a very delicious beer. I think it is 2-row a bit of C60 (probably to color it up) and all Mt. Hood late.

I've heard the same. *shrug*

[positiveContact]

24 IBU sounds about right. It should be pretty dry and a bit minerally, which will accentuate that a little.

 

That's more than I would add. I would do 1.5-2 oz. at 5' and 1.5-2 oz. in the hop stand (10 gallons, right?). For an IPA, wouldn't you add 3-4 times as much late hops (and make it twice as bitter)? Anyway, you could roll back the late hops a little further, if you are concerned.  You probably want to balance it more toward aroma than flavor, compared to a Pilsner, and less bitter.  I'd make it once, then adjust as needed for the next batch. It always takes me a few batches, when I really have a specific flavor profile stuck in my head, but I've long since stopped trying to clone beers and only make "in the style of..." beers, now.

 

I don't consider the beer to really be a Dortmunder, it's more the Munich take on the style, with a dose of Munich Malt, (I expect to help bring the pH down, probably along with a decent dose of CaSO4 and CaCl, but not so much as to get the SO4 bite that I associate with a Dortminder). 

 

I just meant the finishing hops, not the IBUs.

[positiveContact]

24 IBU sounds about right. It should be pretty dry and a bit minerally, which will accentuate that a little.

 

That's more than I would add. I would do 1.5-2 oz. at 5' and 1.5-2 oz. in the hop stand (10 gallons, right?). For an IPA, wouldn't you add 3-4 times as much late hops (and make it twice as bitter)? Anyway, you could roll back the late hops a little further, if you are concerned.  You probably want to balance it more toward aroma than flavor, compared to a Pilsner, and less bitter.  I'd make it once, then adjust as needed for the next batch. It always takes me a few batches, when I really have a specific flavor profile stuck in my head, but I've long since stopped trying to clone beers and only make "in the style of..." beers, now.

 

I don't consider the beer to really be a Dortmunder, it's more the Munich take on the style, with a dose of Munich Malt, (I expect to help bring the pH down, probably along with a decent dose of CaSO4 and CaCl, but not so much as to get the SO4 bite that I associate with a Dortminder). 

 

so maybe something like this?  I'm not sure if you meant that I should ditch the flameout or if you thought it was good as it was.  and yes this is 10 gallons.

 

HOPS:

? oz Hallertau @ 60 mins to get IBUs up to 24 total

1.0 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

1.0 oz Hallertau @ flameout

2.0 oz Hallertau hop stand

 

I realize I won't clone this beer but I'm going for "in the realm of".  since it's not really a DE it kind of seems like it's own in-between style without much else to compare it to.

[Brauer]

so maybe something like this?  I'm not sure if you meant that I should ditch the flameout or if you thought it was good as it was.  and yes this is 10 gallons.

 

HOPS:

? oz Hallertau @ 60 mins to get IBUs up to 24 total

1.0 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

1.0 oz Hallertau @ flameout

2.0 oz Hallertau hop stand

 

I realize I won't clone this beer but I'm going for "in the realm of".  since it's not really a DE it kind of seems like it's own in-between style without much else to compare it to.

I meant the late hops, too. I think the IBUs are fine.

 

I was thinking:

1.5-2 oz Hallertau @ 5 mins

1.5-2 oz Hallertau hop stand,

 

But, 1 oz. at each of 5', flameout, and hopstand might be a good way to spread it around if you are afraid it will be too prominent.

[positiveContact]

do you brew with this yeast with any frequency?  I've never really settled on a "best" lager fermentation profile for homebrewers.