32 replies to this topic

[neddles]

I think there is documentation that when hops interact with yeast in suspension certain flavor compounds are created.

Yes thats the case as I understand it and the point of the first dry hop hitting the active yeast at the tail end of fermentation. I'm figuring that if I do not take advantage of that active yeast period I might as well have all yeast out of the way. Much like Morty has when he hits his second (and now clear) keg with dry hops.

 

Another way to take advantage of that active period would be to use a highly flocculant yeast a la Firestone Walker (WLP002, or similar). Most of that yeast has probably hit the bottom of the conical before they add that first dry hop charge with 0.5º plato left to go. But there may be enough yeast activity left to take advantage of the "new flavors created". I can't say for sure. Does that make sense?

 

I am also wondering if the "new flavors created" aren't significant enough to get excited about.  There hasn't been anything convincing to me that double dry hopping matters except in terms of theory. Few people have been able to discern a difference.

[HVB]

Not trying to deter your method just throwing one reason to add them.  I think we all strive to get that huge hop aroma in our beers.  So far I have been doing OK but keep playing more till I get that huge in your face aroma.  Sadly, I think it will end up being larger DH charges.

[neddles]

Not trying to deter your method just throwing one reason to add them.  I think we all strive to get that huge hop aroma in our beers.  So far I have been doing OK but keep playing more till I get that huge in your face aroma.  Sadly, I think it will end up being larger DH charges.

No definitely give me reasons to not do it. I want you guys to critique my thinking and question what I am doing for sure.

 

ETA: ...and hopefully somewhere along the way this help's Matt because this thread was about his beer not mine!!! 

Edited by nettles, 20 August 2015 - 08:59 AM.

[denny]

So for the longest time when dry-hopping a beer I would wait till fermentation is over, rack to secondary on top of the hops. After X amount of time crash cool for a few days, keg and carb. No complaints. I'm thinking of trying other options as I have read some of you guys do things differently. I'm planning on skipping the secondary and adding hops in primary. From what I remember some of you will add during fermentation, towards the end. About what gravity are we talking? Just a few points to go sort of thing? Then after I add the hops, let sit 5-7 days, cold crash for a few then keg. So 2 weeks from brew day to kegging with dry-hop in the middle. Too quick? Looking for methods and opinions.

 

I just add the dry hops when I keg and leave 'em in until the keg is empty.

[neddles]

I just add the dry hops when I keg and leave 'em in until the keg is empty.

I have had no I'll effects from doing that as well.

 

Do you drop out all of the yeast before you keg? And if not, do you notice the same fall off in hop flavor that I do when the yeast drop out?

[denny]

I have had no I'll effects from doing that as well.

 

Do you drop out all of the yeast before you keg? And if not, do you notice the same fall off in hop flavor that I do when the yeast drop out?

 

I always try to remove as yeast as possible before dry hopping, as I do before kegging.

[neddles]

I always try to remove as yeast as possible before dry hopping, as I do before kegging.

Removing yeast by chilling, clarifier's or filtering? Something else? Time and warm temps just don't seem to cut it here, especially with less flocculant yeasts like 1450 (a yeast I otherwise really like). Normally I will chill the carboy for a day or two before kegging but even that doesn't drop out all that much of the less flocculant yeasts.

[denny]

Removing yeast by chilling, clarifier's or filtering? Something else? Time and warm temps just don't seem to cut it here, especially with less flocculant yeasts like 1450 (a yeast I otherwise really like). Normally I will chill the carboy for a day or two before kegging but even that doesn't drop out all that much of the less flocculant yeasts.

 

Chilling.  30F for a few days to a week or so works wonders.

[neddles]

Chilling.  30F for a few days to a week or so works wonders.

Thanks Denny. Couple more questions if you don't mind. Do you chill in the bucket or rack to keg and then chill/drop the yeast? Do you add the dry hops to the keg after this few days to a week long period? Also, does this process get you everything you want from your dry hopping or is it a process you are still refining? 

[denny]

Thanks Denny. Couple more questions if you don't mind. Do you chill in the bucket or rack to keg and then chill/drop the yeast? Do you add the dry hops to the keg after this few days to a week long period? Also, does this process get you everything you want from your dry hopping or is it a process you are still refining? 

 

Chill in the bucket.   After the beer is clear, I rack to a keg with a bag of hops in it.  I've done it that way for so long that I can't remember how long!

[neddles]

Chill in the bucket.   After the beer is clear, I rack to a keg with a bag of hops in it.  I've done it that way for so long that I can't remember how long!

No problems with O2/air leaking through the lid seal or airlock apparently?

[denny]

No problems with O2/air leaking through the lid seal or airlock apparently?

 

nope

[JMcG]

I always try to remove as yeast as possible before dry hopping, as I do before kegging.

I've usually done it this way with good results. 

Last time I brewed a IPA I tried racking to a keg with a bag of hops (Simcoe pellets in this case) when still 8 gr pts short of finish.  At room temp I vented 6 or 8 times daily with the PRV for 5 days.  When I got to FG, I racked to another keg.  Just finished carb.  Very nice results.