129 replies to this topic

[gnef]

Well, I've done a lot more purchasing lately, and have much on the way to me. 

 

I settled on going ahead with the sub panel, and have the subpanel and all necessary breakers and the 50 amp GFCI for the main panel, along with the 6/3 wire. 

 

I bought all the copper I think I'll need, plus some extra fittings just in case. I also bought lead free solder, flux paste, and brushes. I already have a propane torch which should be fine for the job. I still need to get the sink valves, and the stainless 1/2 valves are on their way from china. Haha. I am going to have three valves, one for the water filter, one with a camlock for flushing lines, and one with a garden hose fitting for other cleaning and flushing through the chiller. I do have converter adapters I've made, but I think it will be easier to just have the dedicated separate valve, rather than switching things around. I haven't ordered the sink yet due to its size though, as I still need that space for other things right now as I am working on some home projects at the same time too.

 

I also got the 30 amp 10 gauge cable, and it is hefty. I also just put in an order for PG21 cord grips (the 10 gauge cable is just over 16 mm in diameter), which I think will fit in 3/4'' knockouts which will be convenient. I also have the 30 amp switches and the AC whips, though with the 10 gauge cable, I may return the AC whips, but we'll see.

 

I'll be putting in the order for the two monitor arms soon.

 

I measured out dimensions for the mill to be mounted on hinges above the mash tun, and it should work quite well, hopefully.

 

I am still figuring out placement along the wall for all the electrical boxes for everything - vent fan, mill, chugger pump, sump pump, and a spare one for a future chugger pump if I want to fly sparge.

 

Once I figure out the placement for all the electrical, I'll go ahead and do the wiring, and then the vent hood, and then I can  work on modifying the kettles and getting the conversion kits and controllers. I do already have the SSR for the HLT, but the temperature controllers are on their way from china as well. It was surprisingly difficult to find a 240v temperature controller that showed temperature in Fahrenheit. I still haven't fully decided on how to add fans into the controllers yet, but I'm not too worried about it.

 

I think I want to try silver soldering the brewhardware radius 2" triclovers. If I fail miserably with that, I'll just get the weldless kits from stilldragon.

 

I've moved things around in the garage, and put in an overhead airhose reel, which gives me more space on the ground.

 

I also still need to get the discharge hose. I tend to think I'll just get a rubber hose, as it should be able to withstand the higher temperatures the best.

 

So, some progress made, but a lot of work still left to do.

[gnef]

I just found these elements on Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.c...s 5500w element

 

https://www.amazon.c...s 5500w element

 

They are significantly cheaper than the electric brewing sites (brewhardware is $37, most are around there). Anyone think these from Amazon wouldn't be as good?

 

Also, do most of you use the ripple or the straight? I know the ripple will have a lower density and be more dry fire resistant, but I figure if I dry fire it, it will be gone either way, and the straight element will be easier to put in and remove. Thoughts though?

[BlKtRe]

Good catch on the ripple. I use a ripple on the HLT and straight in the BK. Watch out on the straight you posted since it's a high watt density element in the BK. Hate to see you possibly scortch your wort. The Brewhardware version are low watt density at 240v 5500w. Looks good and exciting so far!

[gnef]

Good catch on the ripple. I use a ripple on the HLT and straight in the BK. Watch out on the straight you posted since it's a high watt density element in the BK. Hate to see you possibly scortch your wort. The Brewhardware version are low watt density at 240v 5500w. Looks good and exciting so far!

Hmmmmm, then maybe get a ripple for the BK, and get the straight for the HLT? 

[matt6150]

Hmmmmm, then maybe get a ripple for the BK, and get the straight for the HLT?

I would get these for both. I have dry fired these before without issue.
https://www.amazon.c...U0pL&ref=plSrch

[gnef]

I saw those, but I wanted to stick with the stainless elements so that I don't have to worry about corrosion. Did you add any silicone grease or anything to your element to prevent corrosion?

[matt6150]

I didn't add any silicone or anything. I have zero issues in the BK with corrosion. The HLT has a little rust. You could use one of these in the HLT.
https://www.amazon.c...nJZL&ref=plSrch
But I guess at that point you might as well use a SS element.

[gnef]

I didn't add any silicone or anything. I have zero issues in the BK with corrosion. The HLT has a little rust. You could use one of these in the HLT.
https://www.amazon.c...nJZL&ref=plSrch
But I guess at that point you might as well use a SS element.

Haha. Yea, I'm thinking I'll stick with stainless and not worry about corrosion, plus the prices are about the same for these elements. I appreciate the feedback though!

[BlKtRe]

Hmmmmm, then maybe get a ripple for the BK, and get the straight for the HLT? 

 

My feeling with using the ripple in the HLT is any possible lime buildup since the HLT is just water. I don't know if there is any justification for that but it's the purpose of a ripple.

 

 

I would get these for both. I have dry fired these before without issue.
https://www.amazon.c...U0pL&ref=plSrch

 

I currently have this in my HLT. The base is rusted. Im planning on replacing it with a SS ripple someday. 

Edited by BlKtRe, 23 April 2016 - 08:39 AM.

[matt6150]

My feeling with using the ripple in the HLT is any possible lime buildup since the HLT is just water. I don't know if there is any justification for that but it's the purpose of a ripple.

 

 

 

I currently have this in my HLT. The base is rusted. Im planning on replacing it with a SS ripple someday. 

Yeah I figure I would do the same at some point.

[gnef]

Well, I just put in the order for one straight and one ripple. I won't be able to test these for a while since there is a lot more infrastructure I need to complete before the kettle conversions (plus I haven't ordered the stuff for the kettle conversions yet).

[gnef]

At this point, I either have everything, or it is being shipped to me, except for cooling fans for the control panels (I'm waiting to get them in hand to figure out size and orientation). The only thing is that some of it is being shipped from China, and I have no idea how long it will take for those to get to me. I have time though, so I'm not too worried about it, and it gives me more time to solidify how I want to do things, and it helps narrow what I can work on, which can be a good thing.

 

I've also pulled all of the 6/3 cable, and stapled it, but I haven't wired it in to the panel yet. I want to wait till I get some more stuff wired at the sub panel before I wire in to the main panel and put the GFCI in.

 

I'm still a bit nervous about sweating the copper lines from the hot and cold water lines, but I hope that it goes well and I don't have to try to figure out how to remove a fitting to resweat.

[BlKtRe]

If you are sweating about sweating copper use some shark bite fittings and call it good. 

[HVB]

If you are sweating about sweating copper use some shark bite fittings and call it good. 

Have to agree.  They are pricey but work well, as long as they are not behind a wall.

[gnef]

I've got a lot of turns and Tees I need to make, so I can't justify the cost. Plus, I already bought the flux, solder, copper, and all the fittings and valves. Haha. I've done one practice joint, and it wasn't too bad. I'm just a bit worried about Teeing off the mainlines.

[BlKtRe]

I've got a lot of turns and Tees I need to make, so I can't justify the cost. Plus, I already bought the flux, solder, copper, and all the fittings and valves. Haha. I've done one practice joint, and it wasn't too bad. I'm just a bit worried about Teeing off the mainlines.

 

Use a good flux and MAPP gas. On T's and 45's I like to heat both sides of the copper pipe leading in and touch the corners or middle of the T's gently. Usually things will start to flow fairly easily after that. 

[djinkc]

I've got a lot of turns and Tees I need to make, so I can't justify the cost. Plus, I already bought the flux, solder, copper, and all the fittings and valves. Haha. I've done one practice joint, and it wasn't too bad. I'm just a bit worried about Teeing off the mainlines.

 

It can be done but getting the water out can be a pain.  Plan on some extra time.

[gnef]

Thanks for the tips! I won't be undertaking this for a bit, most likely, so I have time for more practice (I bought extra fittings to practice on), as well as to do more research. I've watched a number of videos already, which has helped.

 

For flux, I bought Oatey #5: https://www.amazon.c...ailpage_o05_s01

 

for solder, I bought: https://www.amazon.c...ailpage_o08_s00

 

I also bought one of those wire brushes for inside tube and outside tube for both 1/2" and 3/4", as well as a 50 pack of cheap flux brushes (I figure I can use them for something else in the future, and it wasn't more than getting a smaller pack).

 

I'm using propane, but on the test that I did, it had no problem getting the copper and fitting hot enough to flow the solder. My main mistake for the test was adding too much solder. I noticed solder flowing through the fitting, so I'll have to be a bit more judicious with the use of the solder. This will also be good since I plan on silver soldering the tri clamps to the kettles.

 

For the hot water, it should be easy enough to just stop the valve going into the hot water tank, cutting the line, siphoning out as much water from the line that I can, and then splicing in the Tee. For the cold water line, I'll need to shut off the mainline, and that is what I am more nervous about, as there will be no water flowing in the house during that time, and if I make a mistake, for however long it takes to fix the mistake!

 

For the mainline Tees, I plan on soldering on a ball valve, so that will help with the rest. In fact, I am thinking I'll do everything from the end point of the copper, solder, and have everything in place to do the splice into the mainline. At least, that is how I have it in my head. Haha.

[gnef]

The StillDragon order came today, and the bends in the ripple element are too severe to get through the element enclosure, so it looks like I'll have to stick with the straight elements for now. The good thing is I already bought a second one, so I just need to return the ripple now.

 

I've also put in the order for the fans. I am hoping the packages from China get here soon too so I can start to mock up how I want to have things set up.

[cavman]

Trade some of that keg stockpile or beer to have some apprentice do it for you.