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#21 HVB

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 10:09 AM

just use whatever works for you.  I would say when it comes to water I'd recommend using bru'n water as a stand alone tool for that.

+1

 

I have beer tools pro and beersmith pc and phone and most of the time I end up using an excel spreadsheet.  But like Morty and many I use bru'n water.  After you play around with it becomes easy.



#22 bigdaddyale

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 01:27 PM

Water Chemistry Calculators

#23 bigdaddyale

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 01:31 PM

I use the program posted above and calculate additions for one gallon then plug the info into Bru N Water

I own both BrewSmith and Promash but use Promash  



#24 BlKtRe

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 04:00 PM

I still use Promash. I haven't found anything any better.


I can agree with you on this. But we are old school before the fancy dancy software was developed. But you still didn't answer my post about why 5.2 works at my house. You did however post a bunch of something though.

#25 denny

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 08:32 AM

I can agree with you on this. But we are old school before the fancy dancy software was developed. But you still didn't answer my post about why 5.2 works at my house. You did however post a bunch of something though.

 

If I was to guess, I'd say that you're in the minority where 5.2 can actually do something to their water.  Doesn't work like that for most of us.  And I really don't care for the flavor it gives the ber due to all the sodium.



#26 Genesee Ted

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 02:11 PM

On a serious note. My PH has highs and lows. Averages 8 to upper 9's according to my water report. Using a calibrated PH meter in a wort with no dark grains and using 5.2 as described on the label my PH drops in range of 5.2-5.4. If I use dark grains 5.2 is not needed as the dark grains push the PH inline. So how is this garbage?

Sorry for the hijack SEVEN.

8-10 pH? Holy hell you have shitty water

#27 djinkc

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 06:42 PM

8-10 pH? Holy hell you have shitty water

 

That's about what our pH is here.  For whatever reason my mash ends up OK when I choose to measure pH.   Water is in the house next to be read.



#28 MyaCullen

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 09:27 PM

8-10 pH? Holy hell you have shitty water

at those levels 5.2 might be a good thing

#29 neddles

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 09:30 PM

8-10 pH? Holy hell you have shitty water

 

at those levels 5.2 might be a good thing

The pH of the water is pretty inconsequential. It's going to be more of the bicarbonate level or buffering power of the water that will impact it's effect on the mash. 



#30 BlKtRe

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:28 AM

8-10 pH? Holy hell you have shitty water


Not really. Tastes good out of the tap. And the 5.2 doesn't give it an off flavor either. Fwiw, I'm not worried about the quality of beer I make. My homebrew career has been successful in more than one aspect of it.

#31 MyaCullen

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 11:04 AM

The pH of the water is pretty inconsequential. It's going to be more of the bicarbonate level or buffering power of the water that will impact it's effect on the mash. 

I was assuming a very high carbonate/bicarbonate level at that pH



#32 Seven

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 09:40 AM

It's been nearly a year since I made this post and I still haven't brewed...but I'm getting myself psyched to make something next week since I'll be off from work. My wife has taken a liking to stout (which I never would have imagined!) so I think this will be my 1st brew. They can be pretty simple and forgiving of mistakes which I'll undoubtedly make. I mentioned in the initial post that I have a bunch of leftover grains from 10 years ago. I think I'm going to buy new ingredients for this batch (I'd hate to invest 6 hours of time for something that turns out bad) and just spread out the old stuff here and there. Would love some advice on a low alcohol (4.5-5.5%) oatmeal coffee stout. How does this look?

 

80% pale ale malt

10% instant oats

5% Crystal (30-60L?)

5% Roasted Barley

30-40 IBUs, all @60 minutes

 

Would also like to use some lactose but would that be too much residual sweetness with the crystal? I was thinking single-infusion, 152-155F batch sparge. I'd like to use a dry yeast for simplicity but have no idea which one...looks like a lot has changed over the past decade!

 

Thanks!



#33 positiveContact

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:13 AM

5% on a 5 gal batch would be what, 0.5 lb?  that seems just fine!  I think of lactose in a milk stout so I'd personally skip it.  I kind of like a little bit of chocolate malt in almost everything dark.  I really like it.

 

are you looking to add actual coffee here?  I've had good luck "dry beaning" with whole beans in a nylon bag post fermentation (in my case in the keg).  the alcohol does a great job of pulling the coffee flavor out of the beans over the course of a few days.  I'd have to go back and look to remember how much coffee for a 5 gal batch.  I know others here have used the method and might be able to help out.


Edited by Evil_Morty, 23 March 2017 - 10:14 AM.


#34 Seven

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:20 AM

Chocolate malt is a good idea, so I'll drop the base malt % a bit.

 

Yes, definitely adding coffee here and I like the idea of dry beaning vs. cold brewing or boiling. I recently picked up a medium roast from a local roaster and will use that, either whole bean or lightly cracked with a rolling pin.



#35 positiveContact

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:25 AM

Chocolate malt is a good idea, so I'll drop the base malt % a bit.

 

Yes, definitely adding coffee here and I like the idea of dry beaning vs. cold brewing or boiling. I recently picked up a medium roast from a local roaster and will use that, either whole bean or lightly cracked with a rolling pin.

 

I've only done it with French roast and espresso but I don't see why a medium roast couldn't work as well.


ETA:  I thought this thread was going to be about using galaxy hops.  you really missed an opportunity there :lol:



#36 Seven

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 01:36 PM

LOL, sorry about that! I'll do better next time! :goodidea:

 

Any thoughts on a good dry yeast that will leave some residual sugars behind? Maybe Nottingham?



#37 denny

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 01:37 PM

Chocolate malt is a good idea, so I'll drop the base malt % a bit.

 

Yes, definitely adding coffee here and I like the idea of dry beaning vs. cold brewing or boiling. I recently picked up a medium roast from a local roaster and will use that, either whole bean or lightly cracked with a rolling pin.

 

Chocolate malt is gonna take it onto porter territory.  Probably doesn't matter.


LOL, sorry about that! I'll do better next time! :goodidea:

 

Any thoughts on a good dry yeast that will leave some residual sugars behind? Maybe Nottingham?

 

That's a really difficult thing to control via yeast.  It's much easier to control via recipe.



#38 Seven

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 06:15 AM

Thanks, Denny. I honestly have low expectations for this brew given my 10 years of not brewing, the fact that I'm probably missing equipment that I don't know I'm missing and unknown water quality. I'm just going to do it and worry about everything else later. A water sample will go off to Ward next week. The last sample I had analyzed was after softening so that's probably not the water I want to use.



#39 positiveContact

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 06:16 AM

Chocolate malt is gonna take it onto porter territory.  Probably doesn't matter.


 

That's a really difficult thing to control via yeast.  It's much easier to control via recipe.

 

there are plenty of chocolate stouts out there.  but call it what you want :cheers:




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