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Kegerator Tips?


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#1 Area Man

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 02:35 PM

 I recently bought a full-sized fridge to use as a kegerator. Thus far I've just had my 10lb tank in the fridge with the kegs, but it's time to move it out. I've pretty well verified that there are no refrigerant lines running through the sides of the fridge, so I can drill about anywhere (although I'd verify before drilling). Currently I'm just using a 2-line manifold, but might upgrade to 4 later on.

 

 Any tips on the best place to drill the hole for CO2 lines, size, sealant, etc.? Where's the best place to mount the CO2 manifold?

 

 Right now I'm sticking with picnic taps, but will probably install faucets down the line.



#2 positiveContact

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 03:37 AM

I don't even leave the CO2 hooked up to the kegs in the fridge.  I just charge the head space with some CO2 when the flow starts to slow down.  This also means that I don't end up with an empty tank due to a manifold or other kind of leak.



#3 Big Nake

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:06 AM

I have only used small (4.4cf) fridges for serving. Originally with a tower on top eventually moving to two small fridges with 2 kegs each and a CO2 tank inside each one, pushing the beer through beer line to shanks and faucets on the other side of the wall. I have always been squeamish about drilling into a fridge. Even if I think I know where everything is, I have heard many times about someone drilling into a coil or a line of some sort and fecking the whole thing up. There is some sort of test you can do with water (and I want to say flour or something... someone help me out) and after the fridge runs for awhile a pattern will form where you can make out where everything is located. Then you can drill, run the CO2 line through the hole, caulk it up if necessary, etc. A local bud of mine has a standard stand-up fridge for a kegerator but most people I know use a freezer for convenience. Every fridge is different so you'll have to find your spot, drill it out and then you should be good. Try to go with the Perlick or Ventmatic forward-seal faucets if you can.

#4 positiveContact

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:11 AM

I have only used small (4.4cf) fridges for serving. Originally with a tower on top eventually moving to two small fridges with 2 kegs each and a CO2 tank inside each one, pushing the beer through beer line to shanks and faucets on the other side of the wall. I have always been squeamish about drilling into a fridge. Even if I think I know where everything is, I have heard many times about someone drilling into a coil or a line of some sort and fecking the whole thing up. There is some sort of test you can do with water (and I want to say flour or something... someone help me out) and after the fridge runs for awhile a pattern will form where you can make out where everything is located. Then you can drill, run the CO2 line through the hole, caulk it up if necessary, etc. A local bud of mine has a standard stand-up fridge for a kegerator but most people I know use a freezer for convenience. Every fridge is different so you'll have to find your spot, drill it out and then you should be good. Try to go with the Perlick or Ventmatic forward-seal faucets if you can.

 

I can't remember what I used.  corn starch and cheap tequila?  I dunno.  there was alcohol involved and it did work to show me where the lines were.

 

but knowing what I know now I would likely never bother to drill holes in a fridge if I didn't have to.  I prefer to just serve from picnic taps.  easier to clean and maintain.  toss them if you think they are uncleanable.  and very cheap and easy.



#5 Big Nake

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:26 AM

I very carefully drilled out the top of a Danby 4.4cf fridge based on some other people's experience. I used a hole saw and it worked beautifully. Then I moved over to using one full-sized fridge (that would hold 4 kegs) so I had to drill out ports through the side to get the beer lines out. I did that one blind... drilled through the interior plastic first and then looked around and saw only insulation. Moved that aside and just saw the metal "outside" of the fridge and then drilled through that. Then I pitched that idea and ended up using that big fridge as my on-deck fridge so I closed up that hole and then went back to the original Danby (which had a hole for the tower) and used that spot for the lines and then I found the same model Danby on CL for $50 and made a hole in the same spot as the other one and sent the beer lines out through the top. There's nothing like getting a brand new appliance and then taking a drill to it when you have no clue what you're doing. :P

#6 HVB

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:30 AM

I don't even leave the CO2 hooked up to the kegs in the fridge.  I just charge the head space with some CO2 when the flow starts to slow down.  This also means that I don't end up with an empty tank due to a manifold or other kind of leak.

 

Always sucks finding an empty tank.

 

I ran the CO2 line in my mini-fridge through the drain hole.  Not sure if yours has one but that worked great.  You could also keep the CO2 in the fridge if you had room.



#7 positiveContact

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:51 AM

Always sucks finding an empty tank.

 

I ran the CO2 line in my mini-fridge through the drain hole.  Not sure if yours has one but that worked great.  You could also keep the CO2 in the fridge if you had room.

 

even with how you and others are set up it can be avoided.  turn off the main valve on the tank when you aren't actively serving.  then at least you just lose whatever is in the lines.  the problem I have is that I would likely always forget to turn it off :covreyes:


Edited by Evil_Morty, 21 April 2016 - 06:51 AM.


#8 HVB

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:57 AM

even with how you and others are set up it can be avoided.  turn off the main valve on the tank when you aren't actively serving.  then at least you just lose whatever is in the lines.  the problem I have is that I would likely always forget to turn it off :covreyes:

I have been doing just that.  I shut off the manifold and tank.  At that point it is pretty easy to find the culprit when you pull the handle and get nothing.



#9 Big Nake

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 07:28 AM

even with how you and others are set up it can be avoided.  turn off the main valve on the tank when you aren't actively serving.  then at least you just lose whatever is in the lines.  the problem I have is that I would likely always forget to turn it off :covreyes:

My tanks are always on. My wife goes for a beer very often and if I told her she had to go into the beer bunker and turn on a CO2 tank, she would resort to drinking Miller Lite out of a can. I've been very careful lately to make sure I'm using a good, new washer and cranking the nut down on the regulator very hard to make sure I don't leak. I've had some issues here and there but they were human error. If everything is put together properly, you shouldn't leak CO2.

#10 Steve Urquell

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 07:58 AM

I have my CO2 line thru the side of my fridge at keg top level between the 2 rows of kegs. That's the most centrally located spot to keep line length low. I leave my CO2 valve off and open it up when the pressure on the gauge drops below 10psi then shut it as soon as it hits 12psi. The tank doesn't need to be on to pour at all--plenty of keg pressure.

I've run picnic taps for years. I keep a bowl of starsan in the fridge and dunk them after a pour to keep them clean. I tear down the taps after each keg, clean and lube the O-rings and rubber seal. None of my 7 taps have ever leaked or been replaced using this method. Icemaker tubing beer lines.

My old fridge had no lines in the partition between the freezer and fridge so I took it out and run a Johnson controller to regulate temp. Taps are in the top freezer section on hooks. Saves energy by not having to keep the freezer section frozen.

P5GtsRL.jpg

Edited by chils, 21 April 2016 - 07:59 AM.


#11 BrewerGeorge

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:39 AM

Don't forget about these and their matching plugs for the gas side.  They're phenomenal for flexibility.

 

ETA:  Get the clear ones.




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