I may be done dry-hopping...
#1
Posted 22 August 2016 - 06:18 AM
#2
Posted 22 August 2016 - 06:22 AM
how warm is room temp in the summer? maybe a cooler dry hop would have been better? 7 oz of hops at warm temps is more than most people do it I think.
#3
Posted 22 August 2016 - 06:28 AM
Ken, I've gotten away from dry-hopping for the most part, and I think my beers are better for it.
I've instead gone to larger late additions/hop-stands, which has worked out pretty well.
#4
Posted 22 August 2016 - 06:30 AM
Not sure I could get away with not dryhopping. IME you will not get the same character from late hops and your APAs ( I know you are not a big IPA guy) will be lacking. But with that said, as long as you are happy with the beers that is all that matters. I personally would chalk it up to issues with the hops and not give up.
Also, like Morty said temp could play a role and also time. I try not to go over 5 days for my tastes. But I am also dry hopping at a rate MUCH higher than you. Closer to 1.5oz/g.
#5
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:03 AM
I'm starting to consider this. The APAs and Blonde Ales where I've added 4-5 ounces of hops in the last 15 minutes are coming out nicely for my tastes. I have just had too many dry-hop problems.Ken, I've gotten away from dry-hopping for the most part, and I think my beers are better for it.
I've instead gone to larger late additions/hop-stands, which has worked out pretty well.
I just went down and checked my notes. It was 5 days of dry hopping (Friday night to Wednesday night) in the keg at basement temps with two ounces of Saphir pellets.Not sure I could get away with not dryhopping. IME you will not get the same character from late hops and your APAs ( I know you are not a big IPA guy) will be lacking. But with that said, as long as you are happy with the beers that is all that matters. I personally would chalk it up to issues with the hops and not give up.
Also, like Morty said temp could play a role and also time. I try not to go over 5 days for my tastes. But I am also dry hopping at a rate MUCH higher than you. Closer to 1.5oz/g.
I feel like "bad hops" are going to come through in the final beer whether you add them to the boil or you dry hop with them. I don't know if these were "questionable" and whether adding them to the boil would have produced a better result or not. They smelled just fine when I added them but the character I'm getting is not that great.
#6
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:12 AM
is saphir perhaps not good for dry hopping? I've never used them.
#7
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:13 AM
I feel like "bad hops" are going to come through in the final beer whether you add them to the boil or you dry hop with them. I don't know if these were "questionable" and whether adding them to the boil would have produced a better result or not. They smelled just fine when I added them but the character I'm getting is not that great.
All I know is I had Amarillo that smelled just fine and when used in dryhopping they ruined the beer. Is this the first time you noticed this or has this been an ongoing issue?
is saphir perhaps not good for dry hopping? I've never used them.
I just looked them up and from the description they sound like they would be excellent for a dry hop.
"similar to Mittlefruh. Sweet, clean, spicy, Noble and citrusy almost tangarine aroma"
Edited by drez77, 22 August 2016 - 07:13 AM.
#8
Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:12 AM
is saphir perhaps not good for dry hopping? I've never used them.
That's my impression. Can't think of a Saphir dry hopped beer that I've ever liked.
#9
Posted 22 August 2016 - 08:37 AM
I've had this issue occasionally... not often but occasionally. I have made great dry-hopped beers. I consider any flavor or aroma hop to be suitable for dry hopping but maybe I need to adjust my understanding of that. I have used Amarillo to dry hop with great results so I'm not sure if this is a "bad batch of hops" issue or personal preference or what. Firestone Walker's Pivo Pils uses a lot of Saphir and I like that beer. I'm not sure if the beer is dry-hopped with Saphir or not. Again, I'm not the type to require outrageous hop character in my beers... I'm just not. Loading up the last 15 minutes of the boil, doing a whirlpool or hopstand usually produces results that I'm really happy with. Are there guidelines for what makes a good hop (oil content or beta numbers, myrcene levels, etc) for dry-hopping?All I know is I had Amarillo that smelled just fine and when used in dryhopping they ruined the beer. Is this the first time you noticed this or has this been an ongoing issue?
I just looked them up and from the description they sound like they would be excellent for a dry hop.
"similar to Mittlefruh. Sweet, clean, spicy, Noble and citrusy almost tangarine aroma"
#10
Posted 22 August 2016 - 10:13 AM
I'm guessing it's mostly what you like. even if you don't want extreme hops I think dry hopping still has a place. as drez said it's a different hop character than you get from whirlpool or late addition hops. they all have their place in my opinion.
#11
Posted 22 August 2016 - 02:47 PM
#12
Posted 22 August 2016 - 02:49 PM
I consider Saphir a German noble-style hop. It makes a nice Pilsner, but it seems an unusual hop to use for dry-hopping. Wouldn't that style hop come out rather grassy?
Yep, that's what I've experienced with it.
#13
Posted 22 August 2016 - 03:49 PM
Here's a good example of what I'm talking about in terms of hops. At noon today a keg of APA finished carbing and I just moved it to a draft fridge. Centennial to bitter and late additions of Cascade. I only had a couple of sips of it to make sure it was good. The bitterness and late hoppiness is really nice. I think this was only 2 or 3 ounces of late Cascade and this is my idea of a really nice APA. Had I gone with 4 or 5 ounces, I know it wouldn't be like dry hopping but the late hops would be even more robust. So I guess I'm saying that I'm not one of those brewers who say I JUST CAN'T GET ENOUGH HOP CHARACTER!!! I know there are those people out there and my condolences go out. As far as the Saphir... live and learn I suppose.
EDIT: This APA was actually 26 IBUs of Nugget for 60, an ounce of Centenntial (8.5%) for 10 and then two ounces of Cascade (7.4%)... one at 5 and one at 2. Supposedly 49 IBUs according to the software.
#14
Posted 22 August 2016 - 05:50 PM
I thought of this thread as I was dryhopping and IPA a little bit ago with 8oz of hops
#15
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:10 PM
I thought of this thread as I was dryhopping and IPA a little bit ago with 8oz of hops
Lol. I'm dry hopping a pale ale with mosaic and amarillo as we speak!
#16
Posted 22 August 2016 - 07:14 PM
Lol. I'm dry hopping a pale ale with mosaic and amarillo as we speak!
Simcoe, mosaic and Columbus for me.
#17
Posted 23 August 2016 - 03:53 AM
I thought of this thread as I was dryhopping and IPA a little bit ago with 8oz of hops
Lol. I'm dry hopping a pale ale with mosaic and amarillo as we speak!
Simcoe, mosaic and Columbus for me.
#18
Posted 23 August 2016 - 04:54 AM
Ken, if you've never dry hopped with a certain hop I would make a little tester for it and see how it goes before I put it in a finished beer. Some hops just aren't good to dry hop with.
#19
Posted 23 August 2016 - 05:02 AM
Ken, if you've never dry hopped with a certain hop I would make a little tester for it and see how it goes before I put it in a finished beer. Some hops just aren't good to dry hop with.
Agree this may be worth his while. I few years ago I dry hopped a 6 pack of Bud Light bottles with 6 different hops. The differences between the hops were very clear.
Edited by neddles, 23 August 2016 - 05:03 AM.
#20
Posted 23 August 2016 - 05:04 AM
Agree this may be worth his while. I few years ago I dry hopped a 6 pack of Bud Light bottles with 6 different hops. The differences between the hops were very clear.
did you just recap them after putting some hops in?
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users