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spunding valves!


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#41 positiveContact

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 07:48 AM

Well I just thought about this. You don't ferment in something you can see through do you? Were it mine I'd wait until the active fermentation was done. No swirling, no hops in trub in suspension and yeast starting to fall. But I can see that through glass. It's tough to say in your situation but I guess if I were you I would want to know the expected FG and rack 0.004 points away from it or so and top off with pressurized CO2 if necessary. Is using bottled CO2 considered bad according to LODO lore? IOW, is there thought to be a tiny amount of O2 in the CO2?

 

I cannot see through my fermentor.  I doubt I could reliably predict when I'm that close to FG since I can't really say what FG I'm going to hit anyway and then the timing on that would be pretty though.  I don't think there is anything wrong with force carbing in terms of O2 pickup.  I have heard that natural carbonation is different but I can't say for sure.  I can't see why.  might make a cool triangle test that I could do sometime since I have these spunding valves.

 

I guess I had a few goals here.

 

1) try something new

2) see if I can get the beer carbed and ready a little bit faster

3) see if I think a naturally carbonated beer seems better to me

4) see if this avoids O2 pickup and makes for better beer

 

but if this seems like too much of a PITA it is likely to get abandoned.  if I don't have a way to avoid serious amounts of hops, yeast and trub that could kill it right out of the gate.



#42 djinkc

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 04:41 PM

I've considered this a few times and decided it's not worth trying for me.  Having a valve that will open and close within 1 - 2 psi is what I would need.  Where is Old Fart when you need him?



#43 Steve Urquell

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 05:32 PM

I'm waiting for some non biased comparisons to come around about LODO before making any changes to my process. Noone has directly compared a LODO and non LODO batch side by side yet as far as I know. Until someone does some objective comparisons I will be in wait and see mode.

#44 positiveContact

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 05:40 PM

I'm waiting for some non biased comparisons to come around about LODO before making any changes to my process. Noone has directly compared a LODO and non LODO batch side by side yet as far as I know. Until someone does some objective comparisons I will be in wait and see mode.

 

i was reminded of this by LODO but I'm not really going for LODO with my process.



#45 Steve Urquell

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 06:12 PM

i was reminded of this by LODO but I'm not really going for LODO with my process.

I know what you mean. While not intending to do LODO It has raised my awareness of other things in my brewing process that I could change that may result in improved beer. I've been reading some of the German brewing forum threads and tried something different recently that ended up not only making no difference but actually leaving a flaw in my beer.

#46 neddles

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 06:57 PM

I know what you mean. While not intending to do LODO It has raised my awareness of other things in my brewing process that I could change that may result in improved beer. I've been reading some of the German brewing forum threads and tried something different recently that ended up not only making no difference but actually leaving a flaw in my beer.


Inquiring minds want to know...

#47 Genesee Ted

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 08:14 PM

I think they could still be useful for force carbing or with beers that aren't dry hopped

#48 Steve Urquell

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 04:02 AM

Inquiring minds want to know...


I'll let it lager a bit before giving it final judgement but early tasting is not promising.

#49 positiveContact

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 04:11 AM

I think they could still be useful for force carbing or with beers that aren't dry hopped

 

how would it help with force carbing?  all I can imagine is if I overcarbed a beer and needed to bleed off pressure.



#50 positiveContact

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 06:46 AM

I think they could still be useful for force carbing or with beers that aren't dry hopped

 

also - do you think on a lager I'd be able to avoid more yeast and trub b/c I fermented cool/cold?



#51 Genesee Ted

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 08:28 AM

how would it help with force carbing? all I can imagine is if I overcarbed a beer and needed to bleed off pressure.

Yeah, that's a good point.

also - do you think on a lager I'd be able to avoid more yeast and trub b/c I fermented cool/cold?

If you the the dip tube cut, absolutely

#52 HVB

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Posted 21 September 2016 - 08:41 AM

If you the the dip tube cut, absolutely

 

If you do not want to cut and want some bling you could get this https://www.clearbee...ughtsystem.com/



#53 positiveContact

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 06:22 AM

If you do not want to cut and want some bling you could get this https://www.clearbee...ughtsystem.com/

 

those are cool but I think I should avoid more purchases like this :covreyes:

 

so anyway, put the beer in the chest freezer last night.  crashing has commenced.  hopefully this weekend I'll get to cleaning some kegs and jumping the beer onto some hops.



#54 positiveContact

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 09:23 AM

does anyone have any tips on when I jump these kegs to new kegs to avoid as much schputz as possible?  I don't have short diptubes so that option is out.  should I just slowly pour some beer out first and just hope it goes clear within a pint or so?



#55 HVB

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 09:49 AM

does anyone have any tips on when I jump these kegs to new kegs to avoid as much schputz as possible?  I don't have short diptubes so that option is out.  should I just slowly pour some beer out first and just hope it goes clear within a pint or so?

That is what I have done in the past with OK results.  The one issue I ran into is once the source keg was almost empty it seemed to pull up all the schmutz from the bottom.  So if you can watch your tubing and when it starts to cloud up pull it off the post.



#56 Genesee Ted

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 09:51 AM

Can you make a t section in the transfer hose? If you have it crashed, much of what you pull off at first will be trub and yeast. Have that go out one side of the t and then switch the valves to go to the corny when you see clear beer.

#57 positiveContact

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 10:04 AM

Can you make a t section in the transfer hose? If you have it crashed, much of what you pull off at first will be trub and yeast. Have that go out one side of the t and then switch the valves to go to the corny when you see clear beer.

 

I don't currently have the parts for that but I was planning to just use a picnic tap to draw off the gunk first and then swap that out for my short piece of keg jumping line.


That is what I have done in the past with OK results.  The one issue I ran into is once the source keg was almost empty it seemed to pull up all the schmutz from the bottom.  So if you can watch your tubing and when it starts to cloud up pull it off the post.

 

good advice.  thanks!



#58 positiveContact

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 10:15 AM

would transferring super slow help as well?



#59 HVB

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 10:32 AM

would transferring super slow help as well?

I push at 1-2 PSI.  So it takes a bit of time.  I would err on the side of slower then faster.



#60 positiveContact

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 10:34 AM

I push at 1-2 PSI.  So it takes a bit of time.  I would err on the side of slower then faster.

 

I'll make sure I have access to beer while I watch the tubes.  maybe I should put the destination keg on a scale :scratch:




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