Getting the itch to brew again...
#1
Posted 05 November 2016 - 08:53 AM
I had been in the process of putting together a 2-3 gal system, but now i'm wondering if i should do a 15 gal BIAB and just brew twice a yr. i think i've gotten past the illusion that i'm going to brew on any kind of regular basis. I have the 25gal kettle, should be easy, right?
#2
Posted 05 November 2016 - 09:40 AM
Hope you figure out what will get you there.
#3
Posted 05 November 2016 - 10:18 AM
Let me know how the BIAB goes for you. I am with you in that I would like to start brewing again but need to get more efficient and reduce the footprint.
#4
Posted 05 November 2016 - 11:41 AM
you're going to need a winch or something to lift and hold that bag for 15 gal BIAB. does anyone do BIAB for that batch size? seems like most people are 10 gal or less.
#5
Posted 05 November 2016 - 12:08 PM
#6
Posted 05 November 2016 - 12:55 PM
#7
Posted 05 November 2016 - 02:07 PM
I dont have any links. What do you want to know?Gotta check out some BIAB setups. Links?
#8
Posted 05 November 2016 - 02:21 PM
Edited by JKor, 05 November 2016 - 02:22 PM.
#9
Posted 05 November 2016 - 09:39 PM
Just wondering how people are putting their systems together. Any controls? Vessel size to batch size, bag suppliers, tricks of the trade?
For me no mash controls at all. Wrap a large blanket around the kettle. I have an 11 gallon kettle and brew 6 gallon post boil batches. I have mashed enough grain and water for OG1.086 beers and a 60 min boil with this set up. Could probably get a little higher than that if I wanted to.
Here is a reputable bag source. https://www.brewinabag.com
I keep a pizza screen on the bottom of my kettle so I don't scorch the bag when ramping temperatures. If you don't anticipate ramping temps then it is useless.
It's essentially no-sparge so once you know your absorption you simply add water and salts to the kettle, heat and go. No need for sparge acidification or additions or worries about runoff gravity or sparge/runoff pH. Hoist bag and let drip to pre-boil volume. If you want to max out the mash capacity of your kettle then decrease your absorption number and squeeze the bag to assist getting to full volume.
Another tip (I have not tested it and do not intend to), do not stir the mash before hoisting the bag. Hoist slowly so as to no over agitate the grain bed. I am fairly certain this results in slightly clearer wort into the kettle. No idea if it matters in the final beer but stirring certainly does not add anything.
I got one of these on amazon for like $7 or $8. I installed an eye-bolt in a joist underneath my deck and right outside a walkout set of french doors in my basement. I mash boil and hoist there. Wheel it inside to chill, whirlpool, and all the rest.
Simple, extremely useful, and absurdly accurate is Kai's conversion chart (below). It assumes 100% conversion of your grist. I add a short alpha rest for the last 10 or 15 min of my mashes and the OG is spot on 95% of the time. Never more than 0.001 off. Just look at your mash ratio and and see what the pre boil gravity should be. Adjust efficiency of your recipe accordingly. Don't want to ramp temps and/or don't want that kind of predictable accuracy, skip it.
#10
Posted 06 November 2016 - 03:49 AM
I think keeping it as simple as possible is key.
#11
Posted 13 November 2016 - 10:19 AM
https://www.highgrav...-240V-p3987.htm
Kinda along the lines of what i'm thinking. Recirc with temp control. One vessel. I would build a frame with a hoist to lift the strainer/bag. I really like the idea of a SS strainer basket instead of an actual bag. Everything would break down and fit into the vessel including the frame.
#12
Posted 13 November 2016 - 11:21 AM
you're going to need a winch or something to lift and hold that bag for 15 gal BIAB. does anyone do BIAB for that batch size? seems like most people are 10 gal or less.
I have found that any more than about 2 gal. makes BIAB a PITA for me.
Thoughts on this system:
https://www.highgrav...-240V-p3987.htm
Kinda along the lines of what i'm thinking. Recirc with temp control. One vessel. I would build a frame with a hoist to lift the strainer/bag. I really like the idea of a SS strainer basket instead of an actual bag. Everything would break down and fit into the vessel including the frame.
This is easier than a mash tun?
#13
Posted 13 November 2016 - 11:34 AM
This is easier than a mash tun?
In the sense that it's contained in one vessel. Frankly, i don't find any brewing method all that easy.
I take the point though. I have a tough time getting away from temp control and recirc since i've been brewing that way for a decade+. Maybe it does make sense to just go with a heavily insulated kettle. I don't know, denny, i've really disliked the temperature inconsistency when using a passive system. I'm a chemical engineer by training. Lack of process control feels 'wrong' to me.
#14
Posted 13 November 2016 - 12:05 PM
In the sense that it's contained in one vessel. Frankly, i don't find any brewing method all that easy.
I take the point though. I have a tough time getting away from temp control and recirc since i've been brewing that way for a decade+. Maybe it does make sense to just go with a heavily insulated kettle. I don't know, denny, i've really disliked the temperature inconsistency when using a passive system. I'm a chemical engineer by training. Lack of process control feels 'wrong' to me.
I hit my mash temp within about 0.5F pretty much every time. and really, even if I was a couple of degrees off I kind of doubt you'd notice much difference.
#15
Posted 13 November 2016 - 12:14 PM
I hit my mash temp within about 0.5F pretty much every time. and really, even if I was a couple of degrees off I kind of doubt you'd notice much difference.
IME using cooler MLTs the temperature stability really sucks. Even the good coolers i've used lose 4-5 degrees in 60 minutes. That annoys the hell out of me. If is was 2degrees max i'd be fine. I've never had that experience.
Maybe i'll build a vacuum insulated MLT. :-)
#16
Posted 13 November 2016 - 12:38 PM
IME using cooler MLTs the temperature stability really sucks. Even the good coolers i've used lose 4-5 degrees in 60 minutes. That annoys the hell out of me. If is was 2degrees max i'd be fine. I've never had that experience.
Maybe i'll build a vacuum insulated MLT. :-)
making a large batch size helps. I mash pretty thin as well so it's a lot of thermal mass. usually overnight I only lose about 10F even in the winter when my garage is less than 40F.
and again - what do you think is going to happen to your mash? I bet the bulk of the conversion happens in the first 20 mins.
but if you want to recirc and all of that by all means have a blast. I'm just letting you know that it's not necessary to make great product.
Edited by Evil_Morty, 13 November 2016 - 12:50 PM.
#17
Posted 13 November 2016 - 12:53 PM
#18
Posted 13 November 2016 - 01:19 PM
What cooler are you using?
Coleman xtream!!!!!
#19
Posted 13 November 2016 - 01:24 PM
Edited by JKor, 13 November 2016 - 01:25 PM.
#20
Posted 13 November 2016 - 02:47 PM
IME using cooler MLTs the temperature stability really sucks. Even the good coolers i've used lose 4-5 degrees in 60 minutes. That annoys the hell out of me. If is was 2degrees max i'd be fine. I've never had that experience.
Maybe i'll build a vacuum insulated MLT. :-)
The reason I've kept using a cooler for so long is both the ease and the stability. I never miss my mash temp by more than 1F, not have it drop by more than 1-2F even on the d=coldest days we have. That's plenty god enough. Wonder why we have different expereinces?
I have 70 qt xtreme. Maybe i'll give it a shot. I don't think i've used it as an mlt.
That's one that I find very good.
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