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Hey Badogg... any news to share with the group?


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#1 Deerslyr

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 10:11 AM

Well?

 

:)



#2 Bklmt2000

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 10:36 AM

Huh?



#3 HVB

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 10:42 AM

I know I know!!



#4 Deerslyr

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 04:38 PM

Huh?

Don't worry, it's specifically homebrewing related...

 

But if you've been paying attention, you will have a good idea.



#5 Bklmt2000

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 04:42 PM

Don't worry, it's specifically homebrewing related...

 

But if you've been paying attention, you will have a good idea.

 

Color me oblivious.  But, I eagerly await Badogg's announcement, whatever that may be.



#6 CaptRon

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:19 PM

About 3 min ago I turned on the pump to the grainfather to start recirculating pbw through it to clean it. As soon as I turned on the pump and it came out of the cfc it all vecame clear to me how much I've been missing with my gravity fed sabco system. Awesome!

What's cool is my 7 year old son is infatuated with it and wants to help me make beer with it. So Saturday he's going to be my brew bitch and help me make beer for the first time. It's a really exiting moment for me. :Do

#7 Bklmt2000

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:25 PM

Excellent news.  How long since you brewed last?



#8 CaptRon

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:35 PM

About 6 months. My old system is a ten gallon+ system with a sabco keggle and burner, a Rubbermaid 10 gallon mash tun and hlt. While I like making 10 gallons I think I'm going to live scaling down a little and brewing more frequently to have a lot of variety. 10 gallons of the same beer is not bad, but a lot to go through. Lol
I'm going to hit you guys up for help with my crush. I suspect it is too fine. I'll try to snap a pic of it before saturday.

#9 Bklmt2000

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:38 PM

I'm going to hit you guys up for help with my crush. I suspect it is too fine. I'll try to snap a pic of it before saturday.

 

You'll get feedback o'plenty.  :D



#10 CaptRon

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:41 PM

What's funny is I've been giving a lot of advice in the grainfather users Facebook group. I've never ran a pump or cfc, but basic brewing principals apply regardless.

Edited by badogg, 01 February 2017 - 08:41 PM.


#11 HVB

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 06:14 AM

More importantly, what do you plan to brew first.



#12 CaptRon

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 08:24 AM

That's what I am trying to figure out. I thought a dry Irish stout, or maybe a pale. However with the weather outside cold I might try my brand at a lager which I've never made before.

#13 HVB

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 08:25 AM

That's what I am trying to figure out. I thought a dry Irish stout, or maybe a pale. However with the weather outside cold I might try my brand at a lager which I've never made before.

 

Use 34/70 dry yeast and you will be golden on a lager.  It works well even into the 60's



#14 armagh

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 12:47 PM

I think the assembled here have persuaded me to go ahead and buy a GF.  Living in Florida it's not so much brewing indoors, it's developing a repeatable process.  Getting up to boil apparently takes a while because it's 120v, but I figure in the summer between higher ambient temps and a jacket for the vessel, it should be OK.  Either way, it's going to beat the hell out of overnight mashing and stove top boiling.


Edited by armagh, 02 February 2017 - 12:47 PM.


#15 CaptRon

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 12:53 PM

I think the assembled here have persuaded me to go ahead and buy a GF.  Living in Florida it's not so much brewing indoors, it's developing a repeatable process.  Getting up to boil apparently takes a while because it's 120v, but I figure in the summer between higher ambient temps and a jacket for the vessel, it should be OK.  Either way, it's going to beat the hell out of overnight mashing and stove top boiling.

 

I've read about people using hand-held heat sticks to help it get to a boil.

 

I don't know why they can't have a 220v version here in the US.  



#16 armagh

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 01:08 PM

I don't know either.  The Speidel Braumeister is 220v (it's actually European 240v and you have to rewire the plug to fit U.S. outlets), but it's limited by volume to 1.060-1.065 OG batches.  It's more expensive (More Beer has the 20L on sale for $1500) and to use it I'd have to unplug the dryer because it's the only 220v outlet in the house - 1949 construction, 100 amp system.


Edited by armagh, 02 February 2017 - 01:09 PM.


#17 HVB

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 01:17 PM

So it looks like it will take about 40 minute to go from 160- boil.  that is assuming 8G and 95% efficiency.  I am sure Denny or Deerslyr could confirm or deny my spreadsheet output.



#18 CaptRon

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 09:07 PM

Alright, I'm going to make a SNPA clone. I've made it before and I also consider a lot of it so I'm very familiar with it to be able to get a good idea of how the grainfather works.

I'm super excited to finally be able to have control of mash temp.

#19 Deerslyr

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 10:29 PM

I've got 2 brews in on the system.  There are way to game the system to cut down on time.  The biggest is hitting the boil switch when bringing the mash temp up and then a bit before target, switch it to the mash.  With the boil, hit that boil switch while sparging and get the lid on.   I haven't done it yet, but there is some cheap insulation that you can buy to wrap the unit in that will help speed up the process.  That's my an upgrade that I just haven't been able to get to yet.  (the other thing I wouldn't mind doing is installing a site glass).  

 

Apart from that, it's a "set it and forget it" system.  You can "relax" a bit more and trust that it's doing its thing.  



#20 CaptRon

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 08:46 AM

Here's the recipe I found. Any changes or suggestions?

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.011
IBU = 37 SRM = 10 ABV = 5.3%

The Sierra Nevada website has tons of information about their flagship brew, including the new information that they now use Magnum hops. Use only fresh hops that have been stored correctly (frozen, preferably in an airtight container) for the best hop flavor and aroma.

Ingredients
9 lbs. 15 oz. (4.5 kg) 2-row pale malt
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (40 °L)
2.5 AAU Magnum hops (60 mins) (0.18 oz./5.1 g of 12% alpha acids)
4.8 AAU Perle hops (60 mins) (0.7 oz./19 g of 7% alpha acids)
5 AAU Cascade hops (15 mins) (1.0 oz./28 g of 5% alpha acids)
0.75 oz. (21 g) Cascade hops (0 mins)
0.75 oz. (21 g) whole Cascade hops (dry hop)
1 tsp Irish moss
Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) yeast (1.5 qt./1.5 L yeast starter)
7/8 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
Heat 3.42 gallons (13 L) of water to 161 °F (72 °C), stir in crushed grains and mash at 150 °F (66 °C). Mash for 60 minutes then stir in boiled water to raise grain bed temperature to 168 °F (76 °C). Hold for 5 minutes. Recirculate until wort is clear (about 20 minutes), then begin running wort off to kettle. Sparge with 170 °F (77 °C) water. Boil wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in recipe. Add Irish moss with 15 minutes left in boil. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Aerate wort and pitch yeast.

Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). Rack to secondary when fermentation is complete and add dry hops. Bottle when beer falls clear.


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