18 replies to this topic

[Hines]

I had planned on waiting to brew until I got my results back, but I know I can't brew next weekend.  So I went to a local spring and bucketed 8 gallons of water then came back home to brew.  Heated strike water, put everything in my cooler, then sat down to enjoy some sun.   Checked my email and my water results were emailed to me about 30-45 minutes before I started brewing.  Go figure.  Wasn't expecting a saturday delivery on that.

 

Here is what I got:

 

[Bklmt2000]

At first glance, your water looks pretty soft, and one really good sign is how little bicarb/carb is present.

 

You should be able to adjust your water pretty easily with some salt additions, depending on what you want to make, but your water is a good water to build on.

[HVB]

That water is very neutral, you will be able to make it work with all styles

[positiveContact]

At first glance, your water looks pretty soft, and one really good sign is how little bicarb/carb is present.

 

You should be able to adjust your water pretty easily with some salt additions, depending on what you want to make, but your water is a good water to build on.

 

it's damn near distilled!

[Stains_not_here_man]

it's damn near distilled!

This! And I thought MY water was soft. That's nice stuff.

[MyaCullen]

This! And I thought MY water was soft. That's nice stuff.

that's Portland or Plzen water, I'm jealous

[Big Nake]

that's Portland or Plzen water, I'm jealous

Yeah, very jealous. Very soft water which means that you don't really have to remove anything or work around anything. The pH is about the same as mine but I have 138ppm of bicarb which would make it tougher to lower the pH in the mash. Some acid would help here but probably not as much needed. You would want to have CaCl and CaSO4 handy to bring up your calcium, chloride and sulfate. You would also want to have a little lactic acid If you don't have any of these things already. Someone else may have a better answer to this but I have heard that very low sodium (I think mine is 12 or 13) can make for a bland beer. Some have mentioned that sodium in a beer can be like salting your food... it enhances the flavor. Where is this water from?

[Stains_not_here_man]

My TDS is like 60 which is pretty darn good.... Or so I thought

[Big Nake]

My TDS is like 60 which is pretty darn good.... Or so I thought

Mine is 264.

[neddles]

Mine is 264.

Mine is 6 but there's a touch of iron in there so I go with RO.

[Hines]

Honestly i think the beers that I have brewed in this house have been very bland.  Every type has been lacking and I just can't put my finger on it.  I think my process could be at fault too.  I miss my OG by about the same amount on every beer.   I think the small orange igloo may get replaced ASAP. 

 

I want to identify an economical pH tester.  Drez helped me identify additives to keep on hand.  I think i'm good on that front.

 

Having someone local that knows what their doing and can help identify flavors would really help.

 

Also, my water is "city water" from my local town.  Water source is from a creek that originates deep in national park lands.

[HVB]

I can see the beers being bland using the water as is. Modify the water for the beer you are brewing will make a huge difference imo.

[Big Nake]

With calcium at 1ppm, you really need to add more. I like to get my calcium (source water 34ppm) number to about 50-60ppm which is good for yeast health and also beer clarity. So I add calcium chloride and/or calcium sulfate. Chloride brings a smooth, round, full character to beer. Think Oktoberfest or maybe Dunkel or Helles. Sulfate adds more crispness and sharpness to the beer. Think Pale Ale or IPA. I almost always add a combination of both but the ratio will lean in one direction or another based on beer style. I have 21ppm of chloride and 27ppm of sulfate so I lean towards that crisp side. When I make something like a helles, I add 3g of calcium chloride to the strike water which gives me chloride up around 65-70ppm and the sulfate is still where the original water level was... 27ppm. Hines, technically your sulfate is "3", not "1" because Ward Labs expresses it as SO4-S which means you multiply it by three. For me it's 9x3=27 and for you it's 1x3=3 which is nutty low on all accounts.

[ncbeerbrewer]

Nice looking water profile. You can definitely work that those results. I must be fortunate too as I've never adjusted my water for brewing in the 14 years I have lived in my house. Must be that good NC water Hines. 

[Genesee Ted]

The brewing world is your oyster with those numbers! That's awesome!

[Hines]

alright, i'm thinking my next batch will be extract.  I'm trying to back track a little and pick apart some off flavors that i'm tasting (although drez says it isn't as bad as I think).   I'm doing this for peace of mind as well. Any suggestions on water adjustments for this kit?

 

Extract kit info:

 

O.G: 1.045 READY: 6 WEEKS 2 weeks primary, 2 weeks secondary 2 weeks bottle conditioning

KIT INVENTORY:

SPECIALTY GRAIN

Ampersand Grains: - 1 lb Caramel 20

MAILLARD MALTSTM EXTRACTS & OTHER FERMENTABLES

3.15 lb Pilsen Malt Syrup (60 min)

3.15 lb Pilsen Malt Syrup (15 min)

HOPS 

0.5 oz Amarillo (FWH - First wort hop - add with steeping grains)

0.5 oz Centennial (60 min)

0.5 oz Amarillo (20 min)

0.5 oz Simcoe (20 min)

0.5 oz Amarillo (5 min)

0.5 oz Crystal (5 min)

DRY HOPS  Add to secondary fermenter one to two weeks before bottling day

0.5 oz Amarillo

0.5 oz Centennial

0.5 oz Simcoe

0.5 oz Crystal

YEAST  

White Labs: WLP051 California V. Optimum temp: 66°-70° F

[Bklmt2000]

I'd add some calcium sulfate and chloride to make the hops pop a bit more, which will help amp up the flavor of the beer overall.

 

Shoot for sulfate and chloride levels in the 75-100 ppm range.

[neddles]

I'd add some calcium sulfate and chloride to make the hops pop a bit more, which will help amp up the flavor of the beer overall.

 

Shoot for sulfate and chloride levels in the 75-100 ppm range.

That will be hard to do unless there is documented quantities for those minerals already in the extract. Were it mine, I'd roll with it as is. Maybe just me tho.

Edited by neddles, 07 April 2017 - 07:44 AM.

[Bklmt2000]

That will be hard to do unless there is documented quantities for those minerals already in the extract. Were it mine, I'd roll with it as is. Maybe just me tho.

 

Good point; for the first time out with this recipe, maybe Hines should leave his water alone and see how his batch turns out.