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#201 matt6150

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 09:28 AM

Those are issues of normal new rig/technique stuff you will need to get through. It will come easy enough.

 

Fly sparging, my current rig the HLT is top tier and my MT and BK are sidexside on the single plane. Gravity into the MT with sparge water. All my hoses are setup thru the pump. I have enough head pressure in the MT with sparge water to gravity out my wort into the BK until I have at least 7/8th of my preboil volume. I will then hit the pump for the final 1-1.5g going into the BK. So even though my MT and BK are on the same plane gravity and head pressure in the MT is what makes it happen. 

 

On a single plane, you can use your water pump to get a few inches of sparge water above your grain bed. Have your MT out thru the pump and into the bottom valve of the BK. Once you figure out the rate of wort flow with the head pressure you should only be running your water pump during sparge and the wort pump shouldn't be running at all until your head pressure in the MT meets the level of wort in your BK. Thats the time I throw on the wort pump for that final 1g or so. If its easier to yak this out on the phone let me know, its pretty basic stuff actually.

 

As far as the rust, not sure if you saw all those posts over at HBT or not. I thought about going welded with my stuff but Ive been flawless weldless for 10yrs or so and considering going weldless in my electric rig because rust is not much of an issue. 

OK, sounds easy enough. I will give this a go next time. So you basically just stop when you have reached your desired starting volume?

 

I haven't seen the rust posts on HBT but I do remember you telling me how people were having rust problems on the elements. I just think its weird that it's only happening in the HLT and not the BK. I thought about trying the silicone thing for now like drez said but I really don't see that holding up over time, I don't know. I have heard that they make these elements in SS now, so that is always an option.



#202 HVB

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 09:43 AM

OK, sounds easy enough. I will give this a go next time. So you basically just stop when you have reached your desired starting volume?

 

I haven't seen the rust posts on HBT but I do remember you telling me how people were having rust problems on the elements. I just think its weird that it's only happening in the HLT and not the BK. I thought about trying the silicone thing for now like drez said but I really don't see that holding up over time, I don't know. I have heard that they make these elements in SS now, so that is always an option.

I have had a couple years on one element with little issue, silicone is still good.  I have seen some with brass bases and some with SS bases.  But the SS size was different and I am not sure it would work in my kettle. 

 

maybe the lower pH of the wort helps to keep the rust down?



#203 BlKtRe

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 10:38 AM

OK, sounds easy enough. I will give this a go next time. So you basically just stop when you have reached your desired starting volume?

 

I haven't seen the rust posts on HBT but I do remember you telling me how people were having rust problems on the elements. I just think its weird that it's only happening in the HLT and not the BK. I thought about trying the silicone thing for now like drez said but I really don't see that holding up over time, I don't know. I have heard that they make these elements in SS now, so that is always an option.

 

Just make sure to underlet the wort into your BK. Don't use a hose from the top or go into the whirlpool. The lower ball valve works good because you will get more head pressure from the MT. 



#204 matt6150

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 10:53 AM

Just make sure to underlet the wort into your BK. Don't use a hose from the top or go into the whirlpool. The lower ball valve works good because you will get more head pressure from the MT.

Will do. I cut all my hoses down now, so there much more manageable. Yesterday I went into the whirlpool but I'll change that.

#205 BlKtRe

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 11:08 AM

If you want to practice fill your MT half with water. Run your MT valve through your pump then to the bottom valve of the BK. Open the MT and pump outlet valve wide open. Crack your BK valve and open it it until you like the speed in which the water is coming into the BK. Of course the pump is off and the pump needs primed (I prime mine by just lowering the hose on the outlet side of the pump). As I get more preboil volume into the BK the wider I open the valve on it. You can use the water afterwards for SS or cleaning solution. No need to heat the water because you are just practicing using head pressure. 



#206 matt6150

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 12:12 PM

Yeah will probably try this. I have a few other things I want to try and take note of, like some water losses in equipment. I may have a problem with one of the pumps as well, not sure. It just took a really long time to prime up fully, like it was airlocked. Almost seems I need a bleeder at the pump.

#207 HVB

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 12:22 PM

If you want to practice fill your MT half with water. Run your MT valve through your pump then to the bottom valve of the BK. Open the MT and pump outlet valve wide open. Crack your BK valve and open it it until you like the speed in which the water is coming into the BK. Of course the pump is off and the pump needs primed (I prime mine by just lowering the hose on the outlet side of the pump). As I get more preboil volume into the BK the wider I open the valve on it. You can use the water afterwards for SS or cleaning solution. No need to heat the water because you are just practicing using head pressure. 

I may give this a try.  Not sure I am ready for the dark side yet :)



#208 matt6150

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 03:10 PM

I may give this a try.  Not sure I am ready for the dark side yet :)

So what is your process? You basically just batch sparge?



#209 HVB

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 05:17 PM

So what is your process? You basically just batch sparge?

Yup,still a batch sparger. It works for me so I have not seen a need to change.

#210 matt6150

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 06:22 PM

If you want to practice fill your MT half with water. Run your MT valve through your pump then to the bottom valve of the BK. Open the MT and pump outlet valve wide open. Crack your BK valve and open it it until you like the speed in which the water is coming into the BK. Of course the pump is off and the pump needs primed (I prime mine by just lowering the hose on the outlet side of the pump). As I get more preboil volume into the BK the wider I open the valve on it. You can use the water afterwards for SS or cleaning solution. No need to heat the water because you are just practicing using head pressure. 

Ok I gave this a whirl tonight. It worked, but rather slowly. With the valve fully open it would transfer about 1gal every 2 1/2 mins. or so. So I wonder when I do this with grain will it pump/siphon even slower? So while sparging and I am transferring into the BK am I going to be transferring sparge water from the HLT into the MT at the same rate? I guess I am going to have to get used to the fact that I won't be trying to get every drop of liquid out of the MT as possible.



#211 matt6150

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 06:18 PM

Well the 2nd brew on the new system is complete. I am now a fly-sparger! Worked flawlessly too. Took awhile but I was already at a boil when finished so it wasn't really a big deal. In fact I had to throttle back the element so it wouldn't boil to soon. Overall everything was a lot quicker than I expected. The only thing I can't figure out yet is my volumes. Something is just not adding up. I put about 14gal. of wort into the BK, after the boil and chilling I put 11gal. of wort into the fermenter. That leaves 3 gal.. Well I dumped everything leftover from the BK into a pitcher to measure and it was about 1.4gal., plus I left about .4gal. in hoses and chiller. So that means I only boiled off about 1gal.? Well I know this is not true, it is closer to 2gal. The thing that is bothering me is that I should have come up short in the fermenter, I did not account for that much loss. So I've been scratching my head over that one. It's possible that I didn't measure something right or wrote something down wrong or maybe the increments on the kettle are not correct. But I really don't think so. It will probably take another brew or two to get everything sorted out. Either way it all worked out. I put the volume I wanted of wort in the fermenter and was a couple ticks high on my expected OG. Plus it is chugging along nicely already a few hours after pitching.



#212 djinkc

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 06:24 PM

Well the 2nd brew on the new system is complete. I am now a fly-sparger! Worked flawlessly too. Took awhile but I was already at a boil when finished so it wasn't really a big deal. In fact I had to throttle back the element so it wouldn't boil to soon. Overall everything was a lot quicker than I expected. The only thing I can't figure out yet is my volumes. Something is just not adding up. I put about 14gal. of wort into the BK, after the boil and chilling I put 11gal. of wort into the fermenter. That leaves 3 gal.. Well I dumped everything leftover from the BK into a pitcher to measure and it was about 1.4gal., plus I left about .4gal. in hoses and chiller. So that means I only boiled off about 1gal.? Well I know this is not true, it is closer to 2gal. The thing that is bothering me is that I should have come up short in the fermenter, I did not account for that much loss. So I've been scratching my head over that one. It's possible that I didn't measure something right or wrote something down wrong or maybe the increments on the kettle are not correct. But I really don't think so. It will probably take another brew or two to get everything sorted out. Either way it all worked out. I put the volume I wanted of wort in the fermenter and was a couple ticks high on my expected OG. Plus it is chugging along nicely already a few hours after pitching.

 

Well the 2nd brew on the new system is complete. I am now a fly-sparger! Worked flawlessly too. Took awhile but I was already at a boil when finished so it wasn't really a big deal. In fact I had to throttle back the element so it wouldn't boil to soon. Overall everything was a lot quicker than I expected. The only thing I can't figure out yet is my volumes. Something is just not adding up. I put about 14gal. of wort into the BK, after the boil and chilling I put 11gal. of wort into the fermenter. That leaves 3 gal.. Well I dumped everything leftover from the BK into a pitcher to measure and it was about 1.4gal., plus I left about .4gal. in hoses and chiller. So that means I only boiled off about 1gal.? Well I know this is not true, it is closer to 2gal. The thing that is bothering me is that I should have come up short in the fermenter, I did not account for that much loss. So I've been scratching my head over that one. It's possible that I didn't measure something right or wrote something down wrong or maybe the increments on the kettle are not correct. But I really don't think so. It will probably take another brew or two to get everything sorted out. Either way it all worked out. I put the volume I wanted of wort in the fermenter and was a couple ticks high on my expected OG. Plus it is chugging along nicely already a few hours after pitching.

 

I plan on 14+ into the kettle and 11+ into the fermenter.  My efficiency into the kettle is great.  I think the element really doesn't let me get a solid cone, or I don't wait long enough.  Anyway, with electric my transfer efficiency sucks.  I quit worrying about it a while ago.  I hit my numbers.



#213 matt6150

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:13 AM

I plan on 14+ into the kettle and 11+ into the fermenter. My efficiency into the kettle is great. I think the element really doesn't let me get a solid cone, or I don't wait long enough. Anyway, with electric my transfer efficiency sucks. I quit worrying about it a while ago. I hit my numbers.

I guess I'm not that far off then. I had the same results, great efficiency going into kettle. I was actually very impressed with the cone from the whirlpool. I whirlpooled from 15 min left in the boil till it got to pitching temp, then let settle for 15 min before draining. I don't think I have ever put that clean of wort into the fermenter.

#214 matt6150

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 03:07 PM

Ok finally got around to installing a vent hood. It really hasn't been that bad without. I am basically outdoors anyway, but it got warm in there on hot summer days. The fan is a cheapy $25 job from Ebay. I will see how it runs this weekend.

Posted Image

 

Next up will be insulating and covering the ceiling.

Posted Image



#215 neddles

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 06:34 PM

Maybe you've thought this through already but it's worth noting. And I mentioned it in the other thread already but if you insulate that ceiling you are going to want a well sealed vapor barrier on it. The insulation will keep your room warm and your OSB overhead cold. If you use fiberglass the water vapor in the room will go right through that fiberglass and condense on the cold OSB. If it freezes you'll have it dripping back down when it warms up. Even if it doesn't freeze you will have wet and maybe moldy OSB and maybe moldy OSB doesn't last long when wet and moldy. 



#216 matt6150

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 06:55 PM

To be honest I don't see to many times that the brewery room and the room above it will be at different temps. I don't plan on heating either one. The main reason for the insulation is that it seems to keep the rooms cooler during the summer. If anything I would be heating the room above the brewery maybe once or twice a year for some get togethers during the winter. And when I say heat I'm talking a few space heaters to break the chill. I really don't hang out down there or brew for that mater come January. In fact I shut the water off and blow the lines out for the chance that we get a hard freeze (1-2 a winter maybe). There just won't be any big temp differences or swings for things to condense.

#217 neddles

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 08:39 PM

To be honest I don't see to many times that the brewery room and the room above it will be at different temps. I don't plan on heating either one. The main reason for the insulation is that it seems to keep the rooms cooler during the summer. If anything I would be heating the room above the brewery maybe once or twice a year for some get togethers during the winter. And when I say heat I'm talking a few space heaters to break the chill. I really don't hang out down there or brew for that mater come January. In fact I shut the water off and blow the lines out for the chance that we get a hard freeze (1-2 a winter maybe). There just won't be any big temp differences or swings for things to condense.

I get it. I made the wrong assumption that there was an unheated attic space above you. Makes perfect sense.



#218 BlKtRe

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 05:59 AM

Glad to hear that condensation isn't a huge deal so far. 



#219 HVB

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 06:00 AM

Glad to hear that condensation isn't a huge deal so far. 

I think it really depends hugely where you are.  For me it was an issue when I was in the garage, not as bad in the cellar but I still run the fan every time.



#220 BlKtRe

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 06:05 AM

I think it really depends hugely where you are.  For me it was an issue when I was in the garage, not as bad in the cellar but I still run the fan every time.

 

I plan on being in my walk out basement with my setup along the back concrete wall near a window. 




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