106 replies to this topic

[Mynameisluka]

nice!

 

who has the launch codes?

[matt6150]

I went ahead and ordered those neurtik procon 32 amp QD's at the box and the AL Hubbell relief strain for the heating element box that mounts to the vessels. Like you have. I also bit the bullet and got some procon 20amp for the pumps. It was only $20 for two sets. Mouser is by far the cheapest neurtik supplier anywhere I could find by a landslide.

I'm actually mounting them opposite so I can disconnect at the kettle for easier cleaning.I was wondering how you were mounting the heating element to the kettle?

[BlKtRe]

I'm actually mounting them opposite so I can disconnect at the kettle for easier cleaning.I was wondering how you were mounting the heating element to the kettle?

Right now I plan on mounting it weldlss. It is an issue for cleaning because to remove it the nut and oring would have to come off. Not ideal. Id like to put a TC fitting on the elements for easy removal. A upgrade down the road. I like your plans? I might just do that instead.

Edited by BlKtRe, 19 March 2014 - 06:16 AM.

[BlKtRe]

I'm actually mounting them opposite so I can disconnect at the kettle for easier cleaning.I was wondering how you were mounting the heating element to the kettle?

 

Is it safe to put a Powercon panel mount at the element box and another at the control box? This would make a double male cord. I read somewhere double male cords are not safe. 

Edited by BlKtRe, 22 March 2014 - 06:28 AM.

[MyaCullen]

damn Andy, that is a slick setup, very professional

[BlKtRe]

damn Andy, that is a slick setup, very professional

Its Matt and Drez's fault. 

 

Thanks.

[djinkc]

Is it safe to put a Powercon panel mount at the element box and another at the control box? This would make a double male cord. I read somewhere double male cords are not safe. 

 

I haven't used those connectors.  If there's a chance to touch metal on the male when it's energized I wouldn't.  Especially with 240v.

[BlKtRe]

I haven't used those connectors. If there's a chance to touch metal on the male when it's energized I wouldn't. Especially with 240v.

Nope. These are professional commercial power connects. Tad pricey but will be worth it in the end.

[djinkc]

Nope. These are professional commercial power connects. Tad pricey but will be worth it in the end.

 

Got a link?  I'm due to upgrade a little.

[BlKtRe]

Mouser has the best pricing by far. There are 32amp and 20amp version we are interested in. https://www.neutrik....audio/powercon/

[djinkc]

It looks like the nca3mp-hc is the panel mount and they say it's male.  That should be golden.

 

[BlKtRe]

Thank Matt.

[matt6150]

Mouser has the best pricing by far. There are 32amp and 20amp version we are interested in.https://www.neutrik....audio/powercon/

Actually I think Markertek is a little cheaper. Link

 

And I actually got the male end from ebay. Link

[BlKtRe]

Actually I think Markertek is a little cheaper. Link

 

And I actually got the male end from ebay. Link

 

 I never heard of that company before so I went with Mouser. Shipping wasn't much but I bet comparable. 

[HVB]

Actually I think Markertek is a little cheaper. Link

 

And I actually got the male end from ebay. Link

Those are pretty neat.  I can see using them for a couple other projects.

[BlKtRe]

Those are pretty neat.  I can see using them for a couple other projects.

They make different amperage's and for different uses. I really like this product and I think will look and be better than the twist lock plugs let alone cheaper. Now if they would only make something for a 50 amp 240v power in! 

Edited by BlKtRe, 24 March 2014 - 11:21 AM.

[HVB]

They make different amperage's and for different uses. I really like this product and I think will look and be better than the twist lock plugs let alone cheaper. Now if they would only make something for a 50 amp 240v power in! 

I used all twist locks because I had them already. If I did not I would have looked for different alternatives.  Although the way mine is set up I could have just used regular straight blade plugs.

[BlKtRe]

Can I have a wire check please?  Im ready to bolt the plate into the enclosure and wire the SSR's now. Not as pretty as Matts work but this looks decent enough.

 

#6 feeding the HLT breaker. Everything else is #10. The 15 amp breaker gets its own feed from the top spade connector below the main contactor lug. 

 

Thanks....

 

[matt6150]

Just as long as you never fire the kettle and rims elements at the same time or you will overload that #10 wire jumping the HLT to rims. But I think we talked about that. Also the white wires going to the contactor coils can be a lot smaller. That is only 120v.

[BlKtRe]

Just as long as you never fire the kettle and rims elements at the same time or you will overload that #10 wire jumping the HLT to rims. But I think we talked about that. Also the white wires going to the contactor coils can be a lot smaller. That is only 120v.

 

The RIMS and Kettle will never fire with each other just the RIMS and the HLT will. The RIMS and Kettle are on a 3 way switch to make sure no accidents will happen. I also have some more #6 if you think I should use it to jump all the breakers. 

 

Should I replace the neutral wire with smaller wire? I have some #14 white if I have to do so.

Edited by BlKtRe, 26 March 2014 - 12:26 PM.