106 replies to this topic

[matt6150]

The RIMS and Kettle will never fire with each other just the RIMS and the HLT will. The RIMS and Kettle are on a 3 way switch to make sure no accidents will happen. I also have some more #6 if you think I should use it to jump all the breakers. 

 

Should I replace the neutral wire with smaller wire? I have some #14 white if I have to do so.

Yeah I remember talking about the 3-way switch now. That will be perfect, I would just leave it.

 

Yeah could replace it with #14 if you want. It won't hurt anything the way you have it now. The #14 is just easier to work with and takes up less room, but you have it done now.

[BlKtRe]

Yeah I remember talking about the 3-way switch now. That will be perfect, I would just leave it.

 

Yeah could replace it with #14 if you want. It won't hurt anything the way you have it now. The #14 is just easier to work with and takes up less room, but you have it done now.

 

Not sure if its different wire manufactures or what but I have a bunch of #10 that Stangbat gave me after his electric build many moons ago. It is a lot stiffer than the #10 I got at HD. I almost couldn't believe they were the same gauge until I looked at stamp markings and stripped the ends to compare. I went with the HD wire for the SSR's since there were a bunch more turns and my stuff for what you see in the pic. 

 

So wiring the RIMS with a 40 amp SSR off the main lugs of the contactor and keeping that #10 on the RIMS breaker now that I think about it might not be a good idea. I would be relying just on the total wattage of the elements to keep from frying that #10. A 2500w RIMS and the 5500w HLT. I guess I could wire the RIMS off the 120v side connections on the contactor and keep the #10 on the breaker. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Edited by BlKtRe, 26 March 2014 - 03:36 PM.

[matt6150]

Not sure if its different wire manufactures or what but I have a bunch of #10 that Stangbat gave me after his electric build many moons ago. It is a lot stiffer than the #10 I got at HD. I almost couldn't believe they were the same gauge until I looked at stamp markings and stripped the ends to compare. I went with the HD wire for the SSR's since there were a bunch more turns and my stuff for what you see in the pic. 

 

So wiring the RIMS with a 40 amp SSR off the main lugs of the contactor and keeping that #10 on the RIMS breaker now that I think about it might not be a good idea. I would be relying just on the total wattage of the elements to keep from frying that #10. A 2500w RIMS and the 5500w HLT. I guess I could wire the RIMS off the 120v side connections on the contactor and keep the #10 on the breaker. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Not sure I'm completely following what you are trying to say. The amperage of your SSR is irrelevant as far as how much power you are drawing. As long as it is big enough to handle the load, in this case only about 10amp with your 2500w RIMS element. It could be a 80amp SSR for that matter. Just as long as your not firing the RIMS and Kettle elements at the same time, how you have it wired now is fine. And with the 3-way switch that should never happen. Firing the RIMS element only with 120v will be drawing twice as much power and would be even worse.

[BlKtRe]

Right when I think I understand something I don't. Thanks.

[BlKtRe]

So, I forgot to order a power connect for my RIMS when ordering for the pump and the two main elements 

 

I suppose you are going to tell me I need a 32 amp procon for that aren't you? 

[BlKtRe]

Not sure I'm completely following what you are trying to say. The amperage of your SSR is irrelevant as far as how much power you are drawing. As long as it is big enough to handle the load, in this case only about 10amp with your 2500w RIMS element. It could be a 80amp SSR for that matter. Just as long as your not firing the RIMS and Kettle elements at the same time, how you have it wired now is fine. And with the 3-way switch that should never happen. Firing the RIMS element only with 120v will be drawing twice as much power and would be even worse.

 

Ive been thinking about this. I cannot run the Kettle and RIMS at the same time because of the #10 feed to the RIMS breaker. The RIMS breaker feeds a #10 to the Kettle breaker. Can I run the Kettle and the HLT at the same time? I hope so because this is a major part of the build I cannot do without. 

[HVB]

Ive been thinking about this. I cannot run the Kettle and RIMS at the same time because of the #10 feed to the RIMS breaker. The RIMS breaker feeds a #10 to the Kettle breaker. Can I run the Kettle and the HLT at the same time? I hope so because this is a major part of the build I cannot do without.

Any reason you did not pull the source for the kettle breaker right from the contactor?

[BlKtRe]

Any reason you did not pull the source for the kettle breaker right from the contactor?

 

I could go back and do it that way. Makes sense except I don't know if contactor lugs could hold two #6 wires. Or jumping #6 all the way across the breakers? 

[BlKtRe]

Drez,

 

 I've done the same Kal has done in this pic. The diagram is a 50 amp back to back firing the HLT and Kettle at the same time. One thing you will notice he wires #6 directly to the HLT relay then #10 over to the boil relay. I'm not using a shunt so its omitted. Looking at how I used #6 into the HLT breaker and jumped #10 all the way across what is the difference between what I did and Kals? I don't see any...

 

Edited by BlKtRe, 28 March 2014 - 09:50 AM.

[HVB]

I could go back and do it that way. Makes sense except I don't know if contactor lugs could hold two #6 wires. Or jumping #6 all the way across the breakers? 

looks like you should be fine.  I think what Matt was saying was if you have all three on at once that #10 between the HLT and the RIMS would overload.  I am sure he will jump in and correct me if I am making a bad assumption on his response.

 

I just wired mine a bit different.  I went from the contactor to a group of distribution blocks and then made homeruns to all my relays. 

[BlKtRe]

looks like you should be fine.  I think what Matt was saying was if you have all three on at once that #10 between the HLT and the RIMS would overload.  I am sure he will jump in and correct me if I am making a bad assumption on his response.

 

I just wired mine a bit different.  I went from the contactor to a group of distribution blocks and then made homeruns to all my relays. 

 

I am still learning. I'm sure that's what he said. Anyways, I really liked the idea of having breakers inside the box. At first I wasn't going to do it then the more I thought about it the idea seemed valid to me. 

 

The way you did it makes perfect sense too. 

[HVB]

I am still learning. I'm sure that's what he said. Anyways, I really liked the idea of having breakers inside the box. At first I wasn't going to do it then the more I thought about it the idea seemed valid to me. 

 

The way you did it makes perfect sense too. 

I also have breakers in there and like having them in there.  I know they work too from experience  

[matt6150]

So, I forgot to order a power connect for my RIMS when ordering for the pump and the two main elements 

 

I suppose you are going to tell me I need a 32 amp procon for that aren't you? 

 

You could just use the 20 amp I suppose for the 2500w RIMS element. That's only about 10amp at full load.

 

Any reason you did not pull the source for the kettle breaker right from the contactor?

 

You definitely could. It's just fitting more wire under the lug. He could run 3 #10 wires from the contactor to each breaker. Or utilize the spade lugs below. Or do like he did but run a seperate #10 just for the kettle. Or just the way he did it will work just fine. There are really many ways of doing it I suppose.

looks like you should be fine.  I think what Matt was saying was if you have all three on at once that #10 between the HLT and the RIMS would overload.  I am sure he will jump in and correct me if I am making a bad assumption on his response.

 

I just wired mine a bit different.  I went from the contactor to a group of distribution blocks and then made homeruns to all my relays. 

Yeah exactly. Not only that the whole panel will overload if all 3 were on at full load. Even if there was #6 jumped between them. The only reason you would need to put #6 between the HLT and RIMS would be if you ever planned on running the Kettle and RIMS at the same time.

[BlKtRe]

I'm having a hard time trying to figure out how to wire the alarm circuit coming off the SYL-2352 to the SWA-2451 then to the alarm switch using Kals diagram. I think I come off the #13 pin from the SYL-2352 into pin #1 of the SWA-2451 and out of pin # 2 to the alarm switch (maybe its the other way around).

 

https://auberins.com...SWA-24x1 v1.pdf

 

I also ended up with ASL-51 for the timer. I'm not interested punching in hop times so the extra $10 didn't seem worth it to me. I did find a diagram from using the ASL-51.

 

 

Alarm diagram using all 2352. If anyone has an idea how to wire the alarm switch to the SWA that would be helpful. Thanks.....

 

 

 

 

This is the diagram I used for the ASL-51 minus the timer reset button and light. I also just carried over the hot and neutral wire from the SWA-2451 over to the timer. The neutral then went to the buzzer from the timer.

 

[matt6150]

Ok the quick answer is you will not be able to hook the 2451 up to the alarm if you intend to use the internal timer for the delayed heating. Because you will have the alarm circuit wired to the SSR. If you did hook it up your alarm would be going off the whole time while your water is heating up in the am. I can help with how to wire it later tonight when I get off work and have time to go over it.

[BlKtRe]

Ok the quick answer is you will not be able to hook the 2451 up to the alarm if you intend to use the internal timer for the delayed heating. Because you will have the alarm circuit wired to the SSR. If you did hook it up your alarm would be going off the whole time while your water is heating up in the am. I can help with how to wire it later tonight when I get off work and have time to go over it.

Ok, thanks. I didnt think you figured out the delayed heating wiring as of yet. Sounds like you got it figured out. 

[BlKtRe]

Ok, I want to wire in my key. Can I use this diagram to do it even though I'm using DIN breakers after the main contact? I don't really see that the breakers would effect anything since the key is wired at the contact and before the breakers. 

 

[matt6150]

Ok, I want to wire in my key. Can I use this diagram to do it even though I'm using DIN breakers after the main contact? I don't really see that the breakers would effect anything since the key is wired at the contact and before the breakers.

Yep that should work. Basically your breaker will be in the same place as that 7amp fuse in the diagram.

[BlKtRe]

Another step closer. Picked up a 55# swivel mount for $20 shipped. The bracket fit perfectly onto the existing mounting holes on the enclosure with very little modifications. Still need to run the circuit and mount the elements into my 25g Kettles. I already have an entire setup for electric using Keggles so I might do all my test runs with those.

 

 

 

Edited by BlKtRe, 06 July 2014 - 11:52 AM.

[matt6150]

Nice! So is the inside of your panel all wired now?