51 replies to this topic

[chadm75]

I've been a supporter of using fresh slurries of liquid yeast for the better part of the last 3-4 years.  I was really having some bad ferments just sprinkling in dry yeast from the packet.  In fact, there was a stretch in there where I dumped 4-5 batches using this practice.  I'm convinced there was so much yeast cell death with this method, that there was not enough good yeast left to fully ferment 6 gallons.  It would also take almost 48 hours before I saw any signs of active fermentation.  So I invested in a stir plate and went the liquid yeast route for years.  Over the weekend, I brewed my Oatmeal Brown but I wanted to use an English yeast.  I only had slurries of 1272 ready to go.  But I found a packet of US04 and decided to take a chance.  

 

But to ensure I wouldn't have the issues I experienced in the past.  I re-hydrated the dry yeast (a practice I know that's been debated over and over) and then pitched...and wow, very happy with the results so far!  Active fermentation within 12 hours and my blow-off is working overtime!  Color me impressed!  

 

I will be re-hydrating when I use dry yeast.  I know there are people on both sides of the fence...but for me, I know this method works better.

[Poptop]

I've always had success pitching dry but I'm not adverse to hydrating.  And yes, ton's of both dry and wet opinions   Cheers!

[positiveContact]

I've always rehyrdrated so I have no point of reference.

[SchwanzBrewer]

You spend hours making wort in as sanitary conditions as you can create, bunches of money on hops and malt, but then decide to be lazy and just pitch the yeast dry?   

 

Do yourself and your beer a favor and rehydrate the yeast.

[Big Nake]

The first example I ever saw of this was rehydrating the yeast in cooled wort. Does anyone do this? Would it make a difference? I don't know. Maybe the suggestion of using cooled wort was that it was the most convenient "sterile" liquid in the house... assuming it just came off of a boil. In the very rare circumstance I use dry yeast, I use the wort for rehydration.

[positiveContact]

The first example I ever saw of this was rehydrating the yeast in cooled wort. Does anyone do this? Would it make a difference? I don't know. Maybe the suggestion of using cooled wort was that it was the most convenient "sterile" liquid in the house... assuming it just came off of a boil. In the very rare circumstance I use dry yeast, I use the wort for rehydration.

 

it's best to use water in the 90-105F range that has been boiled and cooled.  I can't remember if it's 1/4 or 1/2 cup per packet.

 

eta:  maybe the amount isn't that crucial.  I think I usually use about 1/2 cup.

 

https://www.homebrew...ting-dry-yeast/

Edited by TheGuv, 03 September 2014 - 11:32 AM.

[SchwanzBrewer]

it's best to use water in the 90-105F range that has been boiled and cooled.  I can't remember if it's 1/4 or 1/2 cup per packet.

 

eta:  maybe the amount isn't that crucial.  I think I usually use about 1/2 cup.

 

https://www.homebrew...ting-dry-yeast/

 

Yes, sterile warm water. Wort makes the osmotic pressure in the yeast cell walls too high and they burst. That is why sprinkling on dry yeast doesn't yield good results often. Half the yeast dies when you do that.

[armagh]

https://home.comcast...Q/Rehydrate.pdf

 

This is the standard for rehydrating wine yeast.  Wouldn't use Go-Ferm with beer yeasts without some research, but with that exclusion, this is what I've used for meads and high gravity braggots when using dry yeast.

[chadm75]

My process was as follows:

 

- Boiled a 1/2 cup of water and let cool to about 100°, give or take a few degrees.  

 

- Sprinkled the dry yeast on top and let sit for 15 mins.  

 

- Next I gave a swirl and added another 1/2 cup of sterile cooled water.  

 

- Swirled and pitched.  

 

Easy, peasy!

Edited by chadm75, 03 September 2014 - 02:08 PM.

[Stout_fan]

Yes, sterile warm water. Wort makes the osmotic pressure in the yeast cell walls too high and they burst. That is why sprinkling on dry yeast doesn't yield good results often. Half the yeast dies when you do that.

I have often heard that 50% figure stated.

So the smart a$$ (me) said, "throw two packs in."

Then the wise man (not me) said, "Although not dead, pitching on a high osmotic pressure does not enhance yeast health."

And we all like healthy yeast.

 

My personal experience from listening to this sage advice also bears this out.

I now hydrate.  After hydration is complete, you may proof the yeast if you like, but I'd just rather introduce it to its main course.

Edited by Stout_fan, 03 September 2014 - 02:44 PM.

[Steve Urquell]

I rehydrate but I'm lazy. Instead of messing around boiling and cooling water, I spray star-san on a new bottle of water, open it and use it. I figure it can't have too much bacteria in it(I hope)

[positiveContact]

I rehydrate but I'm lazy. Instead of messing around boiling and cooling water, I spray star-san on a new bottle of water, open it and use it. I figure it can't have too much bacteria in it(I hope)

 

you should really be heating it up to about 100F as well.

[Steve Urquell]

you should really be heating it up to about 100F as well.

Remember, I'm a lager dude. W34/70 instructions say rehydrate at 73F. Haven't fermented an ale in over a year.

[positiveContact]

Remember, I'm a lager dude. W34/70 instructions say rehydrate at 73F. Haven't fermented an ale in over a year.

 

I haven't used any dry lager yeasts - carry on then!

[Steve Urquell]

I haven't used any dry lager yeasts - carry on then!

*Tips hat*  Aye, aye Cap'n!

[BarelyBrews]

I have used liquid yeast for a couple of years now, i picked up some dry (safale 05 ) and i used 1 packet in each 6 gallon fermentor, sprinkled on top( on nicely aerated wort) and i just checked each(day 8) and one was a 1.004 and one was 1.008. The 1.008 still has yeast film on top.

 

I used to swirl dry yeast in the wort, now  i am convinced it does not make much difference. And i had airlock activity in 4 hours.

[Big Nake]

Chad: When you just sprinkled the yeast on the wort, was the wort oxygenated? I only ask because in the rare cases where my liquid yeast failed me and I went to the fridge for US05 (or whatever), I have just sprinkled the yeast right onto/into well-oxygenated wort and I have gotten very quick activity and what I would call decent beer. No beer is made here (lager or ale) without a good 60-seconds or more of pure O2. Just thinking out loud.

[denny]

You spend hours making wort in as sanitary conditions as you can create, bunches of money on hops and malt, but then decide to be lazy and just pitch the yeast dry?   

 

Do yourself and your beer a favor and rehydrate the yeast.

 

If I saw it make any difference, I would.  But in repeated tests I get the same results whether I rehydrate or not.

[MyaCullen]

If I saw it make any difference, I would.  But in repeated tests I get the same results whether I rehydrate or not.

same here

 

but then again I also O2 aerate every batch, no matter the yeast type

[denny]

Chad: When you just sprinkled the yeast on the wort, was the wort oxygenated? I only ask because in the rare cases where my liquid yeast failed me and I went to the fridge for US05 (or whatever), I have just sprinkled the yeast right onto/into well-oxygenated wort and I have gotten very quick activity and what I would call decent beer. No beer is made here (lager or ale) without a good 60-seconds or more of pure O2. Just thinking out loud.

 

Aeration/oxygenation is generally unnecessary with dry yeast.  As I'm sure you know, the purpose of aeration is to help the yeast synthesize sterols which keep yeast membranes pliable for cell division.  With the number of cells in a pack of dry yeast, you really don't need much, if any, cell growth most of the time.  I doubt aeration will hurt anything, though.