87 replies to this topic

[codemonkey]

In a 7.5 gallon kettle with say, 5 gallons of water inside, how much of a temp difference is there between the bottom and the surface? I notice that most thermometers are installed pretty low while I'm always taking readings at the top with a lab or instant thermo. Shouldn't really make that much of a difference, should it?

 

eta - and obviously it will vary based on the dimensions of the kettle, but close enough is good enough.

Edited by codemonkey, 26 October 2014 - 08:38 AM.

[denny]

What are you trying to measure?  Wort temp as it cools?

[codemonkey]

What are you trying to measure?  Wort temp as it cools?

Strike water. I'm still working on my abysmal efficiency. I suspect I might be mashing too hot, so I ordered another handheld thermometer, and that's what got me thinking that being 170 near the surface doesn't necessarily mean it's 170 throughout.

[bigdaddyale]

Give it a good stir before you take a reading

[denny]

Strike water. I'm still working on my abysmal efficiency. I suspect I might be mashing too hot, so I ordered another handheld thermometer, and that's what got me thinking that being 170 near the surface doesn't necessarily mean it's 170 throughout.

 

How hot do you think you're mashing?  No offense, but I think that concept is kinda far fetched.  Have you worked on your crush?  How about simply stirring your strike water to equalize the temp if you think that's the problem?  Like the pig said....

[djinkc]

Yeah just stir it if you're worried.  As Denny said - the crush......

[codemonkey]

My crush is nearly flour. I've posted about my efficiency woes a number of times here and while I've seen small improvements here and there, I'm still lucky to get 60%. I'm running out of things to try, so now I'm focusing on temps and thermometer accuracy. I've been getting pretty low FGs, which could suggest higher-than-usual mash temps.

[djinkc]

My crush is nearly flour. I've posted about my efficiency woes a number of times here and while I've seen small improvements here and there, I'm still lucky to get 60%. I'm running out of things to try, so now I'm focusing on temps and thermometer accuracy. I've been getting pretty low FGs, which could suggest higher-than-usual mash temps.

 

Something's not right.  I forget what has been ruled out.  Water chem,  fly/batch, Imperial gallons?  High mash would lead to high FG.

[Steve Urquell]

I get higher than usual efficiency when I step mash. I'd be curious to see what a 140F/30 158F/30min mash would result in with lots of stirring during the temp rise. It'd be easy in a pot.

[positiveContact]

My crush is nearly flour. I've posted about my efficiency woes a number of times here and while I've seen small improvements here and there, I'm still lucky to get 60%. I'm running out of things to try, so now I'm focusing on temps and thermometer accuracy. I've been getting pretty low FGs, which could suggest higher-than-usual mash temps.

 

best temp for fermentability is around 152-153F I think.  higher makes the wort less fermentable.  I believe I saw a graph on braukaiser's website.

 

how's your mash pH?

[codemonkey]

High mash would lead to high FG.

I think for beer that's true, but I'm not boiling the wort so conversion continues to take place during fermentation. I could always be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure I remember reading that distilleries typically mash high, resulting in a lower FG, which results in more alcohol produced.

 

how's your mash pH?

5.3. I have that dialed in pretty tight now. Used 2ml of 88% Lactic Acid.

[positiveContact]

talk about page 3 info!

[codemonkey]

talk about page 3 info!

Sorry. I thought we've (collectively) had this conversation at least a couple times.

 

ETA - so anyways, seems like the temperature differential isn't a big concern, so that's good. I didn't end up brewing today, so I haven't had a chance to compare the new thermometer with the old ones. In all honesty, I was afraid that the temp thing was one of those "everyone knows that and adjusts for it." 

Edited by codemonkey, 26 October 2014 - 05:22 PM.

[neddles]

I think for beer that's true, but I'm not boiling the wort so conversion continues to take place during fermentation. I could always be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure I remember reading that distilleries typically mash high, resulting in a lower FG, which results in more alcohol produced.

Say what? Must be something I don't understand here. Can you clarify the bold?

[positiveContact]

Sorry. I thought we've (collectively) had this conversation at least a couple times.

 

ETA - so anyways, seems like the temperature differential isn't a big concern, so that's good. I didn't end up brewing today, so I haven't had a chance to compare the new thermometer with the old ones. In all honesty, I was afraid that the temp thing was one of those "everyone knows that and adjusts for it." 

 

we may have and I just forgot.  have you determined if this is a conversion issue or not?

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

In a 7.5 gallon kettle with say, 5 gallons of water inside, how much of a temp difference is there between the bottom and the surface? I notice that most thermometers are installed pretty low while I'm always taking readings at the top with a lab or instant thermo. Shouldn't really make that much of a difference, should it?

 

eta - and obviously it will vary based on the dimensions of the kettle, but close enough is good enough.

Are you fermenting with the grain in the fermenter? How are you measuring your efficiency?

[codemonkey]

Say what? Must be something I don't understand here. Can you clarify the bold?

Just what it says. I batch sparge, so I drain twice into the kettle, chill and then pitch. No need to boil since there aren't any hops.

 

we may have and I just forgot.  have you determined if this is a conversion issue or not?

I let it go 90 mins and usually do an iodine test. 

 

Are you fermenting with the grain in the fermenter? How are you measuring your efficiency?

No, I sparge.

 

To measure efficiency I take a refractometer reading once the wort is cool, then I use a traditional hydrometer after it ferments. This run was 18# of 2-row and I pulled out 5.5 gallons. Started at 1.065 and finished at 1.002 using WLP045. The online calculators say my efficiency is 53%.

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

That was two sparges for a total of 5.5 gallons?

[neddles]

Just what it says. I batch sparge, so I drain twice into the kettle, chill and then pitch. No need to boil since there aren't any hops.

I get the no boil/no hops part. I was confused about the 'continued conversion during fermentation'.

[positiveContact]

I let it go 90 mins and usually do an iodine test. 

 

have you taken the gravity of the first running?  that would allow you to determine what kind of conversion you are getting.