Do you need to stir after first batch sparge?
Mash ,drain
batch sparge #1 ,stir ,vorlauf,drain
batch sparge #2,? ,drain
Posted 20 November 2014 - 08:00 PM
Do you need to stir after first batch sparge?
Mash ,drain
batch sparge #1 ,stir ,vorlauf,drain
batch sparge #2,? ,drain
Posted 20 November 2014 - 08:14 PM
BDA, i do what you describe above, except i only do 1 batch sparge, not 2.
I'd suggest stirring well after adding your batch sparge water, each time you add sparge water.
If you just add the sparge water, without stirring the grain bed, your efficiency could suffer.
The process you're suggesting above sounds fine to me.
Posted 20 November 2014 - 08:32 PM
interesting you only do 1 batch sparge.on a 7 gallon boil that would be min. of 5 gallon sparge.I thought that big of a sparge would cause tannins on a five gallon batch
Posted 20 November 2014 - 08:41 PM
Posted 20 November 2014 - 08:45 PM
Then add more water to your mash.interesting you only do 1 batch sparge.on a 7 gallon boil that would be min. of 5 gallon sparge.I thought that big of a sparge would cause tannins on a five gallon batch
Posted 20 November 2014 - 09:00 PM
Posted 20 November 2014 - 11:58 PM
My next question is at what point is the water to grain ratio detrimental and what is the optimal W:G ratio.
Edited by bigdaddyale, 20 November 2014 - 11:59 PM.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 03:42 AM
interesting you only do 1 batch sparge.on a 7 gallon boil that would be min. of 5 gallon sparge.I thought that big of a sparge would cause tannins on a five gallon batch
I don't think it would matter much if you did it as one big one or two smaller ones in terms of tannin extraction. just my gut feeling.
My next question is at what point is the water to grain ratio detrimental and what is the optimal W:G ratio.
it's a pretty gentle roll off and even then, who cares? a lot of people no sparge. generally, I now fill up my mash tun to capacity (so a pretty thin mash) and then sparge with 2-3 gallons of water. this is for a 10 gallon batch. my efficiencies are fine (usually around 80% into the fermentor) and quality has not suffered.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 05:14 AM
My next question is at what point is the water to grain ratio detrimental
Detrimental? Beats me. I generally mash 1.5 quarts of water to 1 lb of grist.
I've used this ratio for several years, and it's worked well for me. Anywhere from 1-2 quarts of water/lb of grist will lead to starch conversion in the mash.
What ratio of mash water:grist do you use now?
and what is the optimal W:G ratio.
I don't know that there is an "optimal" water:grist ratio.
This will depend on your setup (everyone's is different), but I'd say use whatever ratio gets you 1) the beer that you think tastes the best and 2) the efficiency you're looking for.
Denny's website (https://dennybrew.com/) got me started ~9 years ago in batch sparging and it really helped me out. Give it a read.
Edited by Bklmt2000, 21 November 2014 - 05:15 AM.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 05:28 AM
what is the optimal W:G ratio.
Probably ~1.75 qt/# or more. I shoot for 2 qt/# as a rough target.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 05:54 AM
I've started going with a very thin mash and then a single sparge..
Posted 21 November 2014 - 05:57 AM
My process is full volume mash in a bag. My small beers have topped 4qts./#. I haven't seen any issues.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 06:06 AM
I've started going with a very thin mash and then a single sparge..
same here. I'd actually go to no sparge but my cooler can't quite handle that much liquid for most of my beers.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 06:11 AM
Posted 21 November 2014 - 06:32 AM
I always 'try' to utilize half my water in the mash and half for the sparge. 7.5 pre boil gallons is the target, 9 total gallons seems to be the magic number for the majority of my beers.
def no problem with doing this. I'd say there is also no problem with doing minimal or no sparge beers. overall I'd say it all works well. once you get enough water:grain I don't think going thinner generally hurts your conversion or anything. your efficiency may drop slightly as you use less and less sparge water but you trade that for some amount of tannin extraction (some people are more sensitive to this than others). I've done some minimal sparge beers and they have been great. it works well for my setup. I've also done plenty of beers where I matched the mash and sparge runoff like many people do and those have also been great.
the process is pretty accommodating of different mash thicknesses and sparge volumes.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 06:39 AM
I always 'try' to utilize half my water in the mash and half for the sparge. 7.5 pre boil gallons is the target, 9 total gallons seems to be the magic number for the majority of my beers.
I used to do that, but I quit worrying about . Except for large beers, I use the same quantity of water for mashing and sparging, regardless of the grain bill.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 10:52 AM
Do you need to stir after first batch sparge?
Mash ,drain
batch sparge #1 ,stir ,vorlauf,drain
batch sparge #2,? ,drain
My experience is that there's no reason to do more than one batch sparge. I've found so little gain in efficiency that it isn't worth it to me. AAMOF, if you do gain efficiency with a second sparge it's likely becasue your conversion wasn't complete in the first place. In addition, every time you do another sparge you reduce the buffering power of the grain and increase the risk of tannin extraction. My procedure is that I mash in and stir well. Seal the cooler and let it rest. Vorlauf the mash and runoff. Stir in sparge water, vorlauf and run off again.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 10:54 AM
My next question is at what point is the water to grain ratio detrimental and what is the optimal W:G ratio.
I've gone over 2 qt./lb. and found no downside. My effieincy increased when I went from 1.25 to 1.75 as my default ratio. I base it on the size of the grist bill. I use whatever ratio gets me in the ballpark of half of my total boil volume from the mash.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 01:04 PM
Exactly my process along with checking pH & temp of mash and checking pH of sparge. Checking the pH of the sparge is a formality because I acidify the sparge water as it's heating and I already know that it's in the mid 5s so that measurement will probably stop in the future.My procedure is that I mash in and stir well. Seal the cooler and let it rest. Vorlauf the mash and runoff. Stir in sparge water, vorlauf and run off again.
Posted 21 November 2014 - 03:24 PM
For all of you guys with high ratios, did you find that it affected the amount of fermentable sugars? I was always taught that one of the ways to generate unfermentable sugars and more mouthfeel was to mash in thick (temp being the other factor), whereas if you wanted a thinner beer with higher fermentability, mash in thin (or lower temp).
I tend to go for more mouthfeel most of the time, so I tend to mash in thick and high temp. This is the only thing that would really impact me on this issue.
Thoughts?
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