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Carbonation Stone


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#1 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:20 AM

Anyone use one? I needed to quick carb a beer and I've had really inconsistent results with the shake method. I picked up something like this:

 

 Posted Image

 

It's supposed to carb up a beer in an hour. 



#2 HVB

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:29 AM

I had one and did not use it that often.  I still have the cover and Evil_Monty has the stone.  I do not think there was anything wrong with it, I just for I never reached for it and would just carbonate normally.  I may go back to it though, I have been testing capping my fermentation to help carbonate the beer at the end of fermentation and I think the beer will just need a bit of carbonation once in the keg to be where I want it and this could do that quickly.



#3 neddles

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:35 AM

I had one and did not use it that often.  I still have the cover and Evil_Monty has the stone.  I do not think there was anything wrong with it, I just for I never reached for it and would just carbonate normally.  I may go back to it though, I have been testing capping my fermentation to help carbonate the beer at the end of fermentation and I think the beer will just need a bit of carbonation once in the keg to be where I want it and this could do that quickly.

Not sure… Is this kegging the beer with a few points of gravity yet to drop?



#4 HVB

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:38 AM

Not sure… Is this kegging the beer with a few points of gravity yet to drop?

I am doing it in the fermenter.  Bunging ( insert joke here) the feremtner up with a couple of points left to help build up the carbonation.



#5 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:43 AM

I have a pressure gauge attached to the gas ball lock post. Measuring the head pressure will indicate the level of carbonation. Sort of the reverse of what I usually do.



#6 BlKtRe

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:49 AM

I get a sharp carbonic acid bite when carbing to fast. Plus the foam is nothing but large bubbles that dissipate rather quickly. 



#7 positiveContact

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:52 AM

I am doing it in the fermenter.  Bunging ( insert joke here) the feremtner up with a couple of points left to help build up the carbonation.

 

I'm surprised you don't have a spunding valve for your lid setup.  increased head pressure during fermentation can create cleaner beer as well.

and yes, I do still have the stone that drez sent me.  I use it with my O2 tank whenever I make batches with liquid yeast.



#8 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:55 AM

I get a sharp carbonic acid bite when carbing to fast. Plus the foam is nothing but large bubbles that dissipate rather quickly. 

Interesting. This set up seems similar to the ways the pros do it in a bright tank with a carb stone. 



#9 BlKtRe

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:55 AM

I'm surprised you don't have a spunding valve for your lid setup.  increased head pressure during fermentation can create cleaner beer as well.

and yes, I do still have the stone that drez sent me.  I use it with my O2 tank whenever I make batches with liquid yeast.

 

You don't oxygenate when using dry? 



#10 BlKtRe

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 06:57 AM

Interesting. This set up seems similar to the ways the pros do it in a bright tank with a carb stone. 

 

Carbonic acid will go away over a period of time. Seems they carb using the stone over time not as fast as they can. 



#11 positiveContact

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 07:58 AM

You don't oxygenate when using dry? 

 

I used to and then heard it was not necessary.  To be fair the wort drains into my fermentor over the course of about a 9' drop so it does get some O2 introduced that way.  but I stopped actually pumping in the pure O2 from my tank for dry and it doesn't seem to have affected lag time, FG or the quality of the product.

 

I also stopped rehydrating and again - no issues despite what the science says about producing the most viable yeast cells from the packet.  I guess maybe that many cells aren't needed.



#12 HVB

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 08:19 AM

I'm surprised you don't have a spunding valve for your lid setup. increased head pressure during fermentation can create cleaner beer as well..

I have all the parts just need the time to modify the tri-clamp cover. Next week I hope.

#13 Big Nake

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 08:38 AM

Years ago I picked up a carbing stone that was on the end of a long dip tube. The point was to remove the standard dip-tube and replace it with this one so that the carbing was done from the bottom. Apparently if the carb starts at the bottom and runs through the entire column of beer, things happen faster. I concluded it was gimmicky and didn't do much of anything so it's now sitting in a box with a bunch of other stuff I no longer use (Like Belma hops... but I digress). CWG, not sure how long you have to carb but the 25psi-for-48-hours method has always worked well for me... not too long, not too short, no shaking, no carbonic acid bite.

#14 BlKtRe

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:02 AM

Anyone have a link to a carb stone with a NPT fitting on it for inline o2?



#15 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:07 AM

I have this one set up for aeration: https://www.williams...TONE-P3076.aspx



#16 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:10 AM

And More Beer has one set up for tri clamp: https://morebeer.com...fermenters.html



#17 HVB

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:20 AM

Anyone have a link to a carb stone with a NPT fitting on it for inline o2?

https://morebeer.com...e-2-micron.html



#18 ChicagoWaterGuy

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:34 AM

Dang! That one is 2.5 times more than the Williams one.



#19 HVB

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:43 AM

Dang! That one is 2.5 times more than the Williams one.

I missed your previous post

#20 positiveContact

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 09:45 AM

carb stones are kind of a PITA but a necessary evil in my setup.  if I didn't feel it was needed I wouldn't mess with it.  it's def why I stopped using it for my dry yeast batches - it's delightful!




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