32 replies to this topic

[Clintama]

It's just too easy to do with HWH elements. 

[BlKtRe]

I read a little of the electric brewery site and it says that typically your municipality will only let you run at 80% capacity on a 50A circuit. So two 5500W might not be allowable per code.

 

Most code says 80% continuous for 3hrs or more and goes on to give an example of an appliance like a hot water heater. A 240v 50amp circuit can push two 5500w elements at the same time but it would be closer to 92% total load. In our application we would not have a continuous load for 3 hrs. or longer. So we should be good. At least that's what I'm going by for my build. You could always drop the HLT down to a 4500w element and get closer to 80% if you wanted to. As far as power goes Kal's back to back system uses two 5500w elements (one in the BK the other in the HLT) for 20g batches. Thats what I decided to build upon but Im not totally convinced a single 5500w element on 240v will get a good boil on a 20g batch. Time will tell.

 

I'm considering adding another TC port in my kettle and using the HLT element along with the current BK element for larger boils. I would also need to change over a second RTD probe too. Not sure if it would work or not but it should in theory. Then move the HLT element back when doing smaller batches. That is just stuff rolling around in my head when thinking about getting the most out of a 20g back to back system. 

Edited by BlKtRe, 06 January 2015 - 12:32 PM.

[HVB]

?

National Electric Safety Code.  Section 210.20 Over-current Protection of Branch Circuits

[ChefLamont]

A buddy of mine (and very occasional poster here) just went electric.  His elements are all tri-clamp put together and the connection to the kettle is a tri-clamp weldless bulkhead fitting.  From what I remember him telling me, it was a little cheaper than the coil in the OP, has standard elements that can be replaced, can be removed all together with one tri-clamp, and looks really really nice.  It may be a little more expensive than the diy electrical box and jb weld ones, but it is really solid and sharp.

 

I will get a link from him as I am getting interested too.

[BlKtRe]

Brewhardware.com carries what you say Chef. 

[shaggaroo]

For electric brewing, could I use the circuit/controller described here, but just don't use the circulating pump, etc?

 

https://seattlefoodg...r-for-about-75/

[djinkc]

For electric brewing, could I use the circuit/controller described here, but just don't use the circulating pump, etc?

 

https://seattlefoodg...r-for-about-75/

 

I doubt it.  Those heaters are 300 watts so the controller is running 900.  

[shaggaroo]

I doubt it.  Those heaters are 300 watts so the controller is running 900.  

So, meaning it just doesn't have enough oomph?

[djinkc]

So, meaning it just doesn't have enough oomph?

I don't know what that controller will handle. 4500 watts is just enough for me to brew 10 gallon batches. I would bet coupling it with the appropriate SSR would do the trick though.

[shaggaroo]

Yeah all I'm thinking at this point is really just controlling an HLT and maybe the BK. I don't need anything fancy, just trying to ease into the electricity

[zymot]

For an off the shelf engineered for the purpose solution, for a niche market, with minimal install time and expertise it seems like a reasonable price to me.I have not heard of Bkichmann products not performing as advertised, so I think you are OK there.A home brewer can always do it cheaper. But you have a learning curve and an investment in assembly time and gathering materials. If it were me, unless I wanted the satisfaction of saying I DIYed this, the savings in money would not be worth the trouble.

[BlKtRe]

For an off the shelf engineered for the purpose solution, for a niche market, with minimal install time and expertise it seems like a reasonable price to me.I have not heard of Bkichmann products not performing as advertised, so I think you are OK there.A home brewer can always do it cheaper. But you have a learning curve and an investment in assembly time and gathering materials. If it were me, unless I wanted the satisfaction of saying I DIYed this, the savings in money would not be worth the trouble.

True. But in my case I could of spent upwards of $3k on one of Kals designs or I could build my own with more options for around $1k. A little time and learning what you control panel is all about is worth the savings. But depending on what the cost margin is for some items I agree with you.

[zymot]

True. But in my case I could of spent upwards of $3k on one of Kals designs or I could build my own with more options for around $1k. A little time and learning what you control panel is all about is worth the savings. But depending on what the cost margin is for some items I agree with you.

The way I look at it. There is a difference between saving $2,000.00 and saving $100.00.Do not get me wrong there is value in DIY. Education, experience, customising, the joy of making it yourself. How ever, many times I have tried to save a few bucks, I end up wasting more time, effort and energy than it was worth. When it is all said and done I say, "Awe sheeeeet, if I just bought it yesterday, I could be brewing beer today."So I pick and choose my DIY projects. I am more willing to spend more to get convenience and save time.